I have longing been wanting to travel the full length and breath of Indonesia. Questions such as how do Palembang, Riau, and (Betawi) Jakarta look like, were among those that had filled up my mind. Hundred of years ago, these were the places of the genesis of my body DNAs. Secondly, another set of critical questions such as how crowded, how advanced are their agro-industries, how beautiful are their social-structure, and what is so great about this Country that make them feel that they are ‘saudara tua’ in comparative to Malaysia. And of course out of all these, what are the strengths and or resources that we could work on for the good of both nations.
(2) With the Western Media that used to portray Indonesia as the Largest Muslim State and giving ‘good’ highlight to some interesting socio-political and Islamic related activities which to my suspicion, such attentions are not merely for news consumption purposes, but with some other agenda well hidden under the Western skins and faces. Accordingly, with the nation made of almost 7,000 (?) Islands, with Sumatera, Java, Kalimantan, Sulawesi and Papua are the largest grouping, and the four hours time zones difference between the Jaya Pura in the far east to Banda Acheh in the far west, all these had deepen my interest to get to know Indonesia into greater details.
(3) Surely, with the notion, that we must work together to foster ‘kekayaan serumpun’ is something that I (we) must look for, and really must work on, for the long term and mutual strengthening not only the social-cultural ‘root’ ties, but more important is the religious-humane survival of both nations. The Quranic instruction (take it as instruction) for us to care for our neighbours and our brothers, both in the micro and macro perspective should form the fundamental basis for such an exploration. I strongly believe, both Malaysia and Indonesia could achieve wonders, if we could closely weave ourselves into a ‘beautiful basket(s)’ of mutual and solid understanding and course.
(4) Officially and personally I have been travelling on bit and pieces basis to Indonesia since, probably in 1992, ie through the participation in the SOSEK Malindo and BIMP EAGA conferences and meetings. Pontianak was the first City that I used to frequent in those days. These articles, mean to recollect my memories, of those travelling, and hopefully would be of certain benefit to some others.
(5) My first visit to Pontianak, in those early 1990s, gave me a real bad impression of Indonesia. A country without proper enforcement of law and order, judging from the hazardous movement of motor vehicles, the poorly organized township, and of course the poor state of the general population quality of life, paint me a gloomy landscapes of the nation. Surely, the visit to Pontianak, won’t give the good representation of the total Indonesia, but I believe at that point in time, elsewhere, in Indonesia, would be of equal similarities.
(6) I began to do much serious observations and analysis of my travelling to Indonesia in the 2000s. It began with my visit, together with the Sago Plantation Management and Scientists, to Selat Panjang Island in Riau, in 2004, to have a look at the 10,000 hectares of Commercial Sago Plantation, developed by a Singapore-based Company. The visit is considered critical to enable for the turn around of the Mukah-Dalat Sago Plantation which, among others were the few critical matters that I have to take care urgently. We departed from Kukup, in Johore, and took an express boat to a nearby town ie Tanjung Balai (?). Thereon, we took a long boat ride to Selat Panjang at the Tebing Tinggi Island.
(7) Then I visited Sambas, I believe, made in the mid 2006, when I led two missions of Sago Investment reconnaissance. In these trips, especially in the first mission, I travelled deep into the jungle and rivers of Sambas. The then Bupati, ie Bapak Ir, Burhanuddin, gave his full support by assigning few dedicated officers to facilitate the reconnaissance. Each mission lasted for 7-10 days, and we really worked, starting as early as possible in the morning, and only return to town in late evening, some up to 2200 hours in the night.
(8) Despite the hectic journey along the rugged and or muddy road, small and winding river tributaries, shine or rain, we really enjoy the trips. We ate all sort of local foods that we could laid our hands, such as the hardy kampong maize, that we have missed long time at home, delicious home made coffee, smoked cassava, turtle eggs, and as well as my first encounter having breakfast the Padang way. We even went a bit crazy looking for durian late into the early dawn. In Sambas, during the durian time, the local folks used to hang their durians outside their home, and one could buy the durian at anytime of the day, even into the late night by just knocking on their doors. We tested this interesting business practice, and proven to be true.
(9) The idea for sago investment in Sambas, had to be aborted due to raw materials insufficiency, logistic issues, and complicated resources ownership structure, and most important, at home, I really need to put lots of things, first into order.
(10) In Sept., 2006, if not mistaken, I led a four person mission to Papua (previously known as Irian Jaya) for the International Sago Conference. Various nationalities gathered in this Conference to present theirs socio-scientific researches findings. The journey began from KLIA (afternoon) to Jakarta, then in the evening we headed for Papua via Surabaya. We reached Timika, in the early next day morning. Timika is located at the southern part of Papua, and this is a Copper mining township. I don’t have detail recorded of the journey, but, as we landed in Timika, I took the chance to stretch myself at the airport. To my surprise, as I walked to the arrival hall, I began to see very different type of people. Their skin colour, their facial look, their overall body built are totally different from the rest of the Indonesian that I have ever met. Adding to my wonder, I saw lots of blood-like marks being splashed all over the places, what are those blood like marks all over the place around the airport. I don’t dare to ask, just kept my mind wondering, and after the 20 minutes roaming around at that small airport, I walked fast to the plane.
(11) Again, since I was seated in the middle seat, all the way from Timika to Jaya Pura, a half (?) an hour flight, I was sandwiched between these two ‘different people’. It was a really miserable experience, but I can’t complain much, I really have to control my breath, and I believe I fall asleep due to the long non-stop journey that I had gone through, at least for the past 20 odd hours, I believe.
(12) The Jaya Pura airport is about an hour drive from town. While driving from the airport to the town, I felt rather insecure. I saw police and uniformed personnel seem to guard almost every junction of the route, big or small. I wonder what was going on, and later was informed that the Indonesian Police Inspector General (IGP) was expected to be in town soon. Lately, there had been some unrest, due to some instigation by some foreign NGOs, for sort of the separation movement, inspired along the Timur Timur incidence. Jaya Pura in fact is a nice natural city setting. Located by the Lake Santani, the large fresh water lake, well above the sea level, the air here feel really fresh and cool. Some locals told me that there is an under ground tunnel linking the lake to the Pacific. Some said, sometimes, if one is lucky, one could spot dolphin swimming in the lake (?).
(13) Along the way from the airport, I also observed an interesting shady type of tree, lining and growing by the road side. And at the reception dinner organized by the Bupati, I was introduced to Matoa, a local longan, and it taste real good. I ate a lot of it, and asking around how does the plant look like.
(14) My visit to Papua New Guinea (PNG) revealed that this Matoa, called Stone Fruit in PNG, in fact is a hardwood timber. They are growing wild in the whole Papua Island and are harvest as timber. Since most of our logging Companies operating in Papua and PNG came from Sarikei-Sibu region, Matoa fruits are available in Sarikei, Bintangor, Sibu and sometime Kuching at RM10.00-12.00/kg especially around July every years. In Sarawak, they renamed this fruits as Papua Longan, which I have tried to correct to Matoa. The seedlings are sold at RM25.00/plants. Matoa, grow well in well drained soil. It is an ever green and very shady tree.
(15) Our arrival at Jaya Pura, the Capital State of Papua, was received by the Conference Organizing Officiasl, and since our team were the last to arrive, we were pushed to a real expensive hotel. First time in my service life, that I have to pay U$200.00/day for a deluxe room. In fact the room is nothing, as compared to our Standard room back home. After the check in, and I saw a KFC outlet just across the street, I walked over and have my lunch there. As I hurried back to the hotel, I walked passed the open public market, on the open space, in between the hotel and the KFC. The market, were full of ladies selling all sort of their farms and rural products, which among others, were the young areca nuts, ‘bunga sirih’ and the ‘kapur’. Here, upon observing, the red lips, and non-stop chewing habit of these ‘new people’, then I realised, those red blood-like marks all over the place, were in fact the sputum of these ‘betel nut eaters’. The Papuan, they really enjoy the betel nuts, the young green nut, not the matured one as taken by our old traditional folks back home.
(16) The papers presented in the Conference were almost all are basic, and I really lost my focus. Indeed, in the whole first day conference, I was reading books on Benjamin S., Hatta, and Sukarno, with my ears fixed onto the speakers. At the next day Conference, I sneaked out and rent a van to take me around the Santatni Lake. I visited some of the immigrants settlements and as well as the local native villages. All these villages were without the basics and are very unhygienic. In one place I stopped by and bought two kilos of Matoa, which cost me RP30,000. I took some of the seed back home then, and germinate some. I have ten trees now in my village and have been bearing fruits for the last two years.
(17) A post conference visit was organised to the local traditional villages by the Santani Lake. The houses of the native Papua are built on stilt, with the wall from bamboo, and the roof from the sago leaves. Sometimes, dried sago fronds are also used as the building material, but more for the interior component. Here we we introduced to a very high yielding sago, possibility up to 450-600 kg flour/palm. The palm stand at about 30 meters tall, and look much bigger in size. Nonetheless the maturity period seem to be 50 percent longer than the local varieties.
(18) In December, 2008 I took a two week break. Since my kids decide to spent their school holidays with their cousin in Kuala Lumpur, I decided to I travelled to Medan, through Penang, by the six hours ferry crossing the straits of Malacca. The ferry left Penang by 0900 hour daily, and reached the Medan Port at 1500 hour or so, depending on the condition of the sea. During the rough weather, the journey may take longer duration. In the Ferry I talked to some returning TKIs, among them, two ladies, who were Medan guys, warned me of the ‘how perampok, the Medan guys’. I don’t quiet understand what they mean, and preferred to uncovered on my own later. During the journey, I stayed most of the time on board the deck, to get the open view of the Straits of Malacca, figuring the route taken by my grand fathers when they made their cross over in their traditional sailing boat from Riau to Malacca, probably two hundred years ago.
(19) The sea was a bit rough as we approached the midway distance. The sun was bright. Fishing boats, bearing Malaysian and Indonesian Flags were sighted all over the place. Sometimes, large liners passed by. Though the breeze easily would put me to sleep, nonetheless, my camera, ready to shoot for interesting subjects kept me awake all through the journey. Sea birds, fishing boats, sea liners, and probably the jumping dolphin or flying todak were always on my look out. I really enjoy this open sea-sky view, taking my mind out of my normal routines, at least I make peace with my wholeself.
(20) As scheduled, I board off at Medan Terminal at 1500 hour. I talked over a van, and the driver asked for 150. Since it took about half and hour journey to town, I believe that would be a fair price. I never book any hotel and requested him to drop me to any hotel which is decent and safe. Upon reaching the hotel, I handed him RP150,000. He was not happy. I argued that he asked for 150, and I agreed to it. He said, not RP150,000, but RM150.00. That is ridiculous, which is equal to almost Rp500,000. I disagreed, and argued hardly with him, that since I’m in Indonesia, so any exchange agreed must be in Rupiah, not Ringgit. This is not Malaysia, so I only agreed for Rp150,000. He was totally not happy, I handed him Rp200,000 since I don’t have the change, and I expected him to hand me back Rp50,000, which he never. I just looked sharp into his eyes, and said, without conscious I believe, I said the word haram! Yeehhh, now I know, the meaning of ‘perampok’!
(21) I didn’t stay long in Medan. I took a quick night and one day round the town by trishaw, and came to know a person, whom I trusted to get me a 4-WD vehicle to take me up to Palembang. I calculated the journey would take about 10 days. It was agreed then that the price would be Rp250,000/day, excluding the petrol, driver lodging and food cost. I don’t mind that, as long as the car is safe and comfortable. All through, I averaged out, it cost me Rp750,000/day (about RM250.00/day).
(22) On the second day I proceeded to Tebing Tinggi and after enjoying the cool-green mountain view, I proceeded to Danau Toba. Since it was already late, I just checked into the hotel in Prapat, which cost me Rp500,000/night, have the dinner, and gone to sleep. Early next day (third day), I woke up early and took a Ferry to Pulau Samosir in the center of Lake Toba. After a short walk around the Ferry Terminal, I took a motocycle ride to roam the whole Island (may should be called Inland Island!). The negotiated price was Rp50,000/hour. The rider suppose to show me the whole Island and this include another lake right in the center of the Island (there is a lake within a lake at Danau Toba), but I don’t know how, I was so engrossed enjoying the cool lakeside environment at one of the Resort, I missed making all the other visits, but despite, not moving anywhere for about 2-3 hours, I still being charged with Rp50,000 plus the food for the rider. Probably, again I being ‘rampok’!
(23) Going through the villages on this Samosir Island was indeed a very interesting experience. The decorative Batak homes, with lots of colourful flower gardening surrounding the homes, green paddy fields and vegetable farms, with some waterfall coming downs from some creeks along the small, winding road, with the cool breezing air, really put my head off from all those office matters, making my feeling really relief. Since I never make any homework or asking around for the trip, I really had mistakenly stayed at Prapat. I should have stayed in this Samosir Island instead, at least here, the night life is more interesting, with lots of the Batak Restaurant and Entertainment Places. The Batak really sing well, they have fine voice and beautiful rhythm, and I missed all those. A mistake to be remembered for possible next second visit!
(24) I made a slow steady move around the Lake Toba, heading for Bukit Tinggi the next day (fifth day). All through the journey, it was really an amazing god gifted geo-characters to this Indonesian nation. The cold air continued breezing onto my face, making the aircon become useless. I preferred the cold fresh air, than the aircon. Sometimes, I hold my hands out to feel the cold touch of the water droplets in the cold breeze. It really amazing and cool!
(25) The view of the paddy fields nicely terraced down the mountain slopes, some still covered in green and some were matured yellow ripening; the mixed green-yellow coloured fields, which sometimes, in a distance appeared in between the cool white clouds, seem to look like a beautiful oil painting on the kanvas. It is a real cool and calm sighting. The scenes, really remind me to go back to my painting skill that I have lost since after I left my Lower Secondary Education, the skill of the Left Lobe of My Brain, but do I still have that artistic and soft feeling (taste), after such long (21 years) of facts and scientific-based thinking and working environments.
(26) We can’t move that fast, due to the bad road conditioned. As the daylight losing it warm, then only I realised, the car light are not functioning well. The driver had difficulty to drive along the dark winding road. Again, I felt being ‘rampok’, the promised not being fulfilled, despite I agreed on the full package price. I decided to stay over night at one of the small town along the way. The next day (sixth day), I proceed to Bukit Tinggi. This is another nice tourism place located to a nearby smaller lakes (Danau Maninjau and Singkarak). The air was equally cool as the Danau Toba, and both have almost equal natural environmental setting. I took an opportunity to ride a horse here, which cost Rp100,000/hour ride. It is nice to gallop on the horse back. My quick reading on horse, revealed that horse is very sensitive of human emotion. A happy rider, would makes the horse to walk or gallop gently, while the scared rider, will make the horse becoming restless. Worst with the angry rider, which makes the horse would want to dash ahead in crazy speed.
(27) I then proceed to Padang, with the intend to have the best padang food. The mountain cool air began to warm up as we ascend to the Padang flat land geo-forms. And, as the heat mounted, the aircondition began to loose it function. Once again I felt being ‘rampok’. Accordingly, despite the driver promised that he know one specila Padang Restaurant, especially the one that I could have a delicious kerbau soup, smoke kerbau meat, everything from the kerbau (buffaloes), but after going around for almost an hour in this unorganised traffic flows, we couldn’t located any. I have to call back my friend at Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia, in Bangi, to get a guide to the available best restaurant that she knew. It is in fact really a deep frustration for me, I can’t have the Best Padang Food at Padang, and I can’t have the best kerbau dishes in Padang. We at last just make do with what available, because my hunger turned me ‘angry!’. But I kept my burning feeling tight inside, and pretend to accept it by just enjoying shooting all sort of photos along the way.
(28) After the late lunch we proceeded to Palembang, taking the Sawahlunto and Bangko route. I believe we, stayed over night at Bangko for the trip. This portion of the road was really bad. One part of it was badly damage and turned muddy. Cars and lorries were long queuing. Some have to be pulled out by standby towing trucks. I wonder, how long have the road been this way, and interestingly, this was considered the main highway in Sumatera, and yet, no proper maintenance were done.
(29) In fact all the way through, and due to excessive rainfall for the year 2008, small landslides and falling trees were normal phenomena. I was, sort of having great sympathy to the local, whom help to clean up all these traffic hindrances on voluntary basis.
(30) At one point, I stopped to have durian by the road side stall. Surrounding the stall, there were lots of big and tall durian trees. The trees bear lots of durian fruits, and I enquired whether the owner have problem with durian theft especially in the night. The lady, told me that, so far she had no such problem, because her durians are well guarded by four legged security creature. Since I don’t understand by what she means, I seek further clarification, and she answered me with a smile, loh masa ngak tau, yo, kan Pak Belang sukak sama duren, jadi kalau malam-malam, duren ini dia yang punya, kalau siang kita yang punya. Semua ada kebagian sih! Oh ya, enak durennya ini, bagus kalau makan sama kopi. She made me a cup of coffee, and I invited all the others who were sitting there chit chatting with her to join me for the durian.
(31) In future, before taking road drive I Sumatera, it is advisable to check thoroughly on the weather and road condition, except, if one want to enjoy the durians.
(32) Next day (seventh day), we proceeded to Lubuklingkau, then arriving at Palembang by late late noon. As I entered Palembang, I begin to notice the Javanese architecture began to merge with the Minang and Batak style of housing structure. Palembang in deed is a big City, with the large and fast moving Palembang River dividing the City into two almost equal size.
(33) The next day, I took a speed boat ride along the Palembang River to have a good record of the local architecture. I love their traditional housing design and colours. The people of Palembang are a bit different from those I have met from Medan to Padang. Here, the people are a bit taller, well built (nice body built especially among the ladies), and having much fair skin. They seem to be more active (aggressive) and much straight in their deal. Palembang is well know for it songket. I visited some of the stores, and they really have fine songket, much better than the Kelantanese or Trengganus (at equal price). Seafood are abundant in Palembang, and here I ate at the Best Padang Resturant and Best Padang Dishes, but still missed the kerbau dishes. Now only I realised, the Padang would only be better if they are out of Padang!
(34) I spent two days in Palembang, roaming around, wondering without any clue where was my grand father original village. I have no body to turn to, and I assumed, probably best to remain that way! Only on the second day stay did I realised, that Parameswara, the Founder of Temasik and Malacca was from here. I have a naughty thought, who knows, I’m one of his bau-bau tempe of his genetic line!
(35) On the eleventh day of my visit, I flew off to Jakarta, then took the long delayed evening flight to Kuala Lumpur, then straight away taking the earliest flight back to Kuching. Well this ten solid days of roaming the Sumatera, I would concluded that, there are still lots of room for major development in Sumatera. Their oil palm, rubber, all those other agriculture developments, should not worry the Malaysian. They need more to feed their own people. But definitely there are huge business opportunities that Malaysian could tape, including those, I believe at Kepulauan Riau at Daik, Bantam, Tanjung Balai and Bengkalis.
(36) In mid and toward end of 2008, I made two trips to Solo (long time ago called Surakarta) and Yogjakarta. The dairy cattle and vegetables farming took me to these two cities. In both trips I was accompanied by Sdra Busrah and our Food and Agronomic Scientists. Currently , there are direct flight from KLIA to Solo and Yogjakarta.
(37) Solo in particular is well known for its agriculture development. Farmers in Solo are very creative especially in making full used of their agriculture products and by-products. Cattle (and or goat) farming integrated into the paddy and or vegetable farming are among the best examples. The paddy straw (or vegetable waste), with special bio-treatment, are feed to the cattle as their main source of fibre feed, and the solid waste from the cattle, then be turn into organic fertilizer, with the water waste being kept into special retention ponds, then release as fertilizer into the paddy fields and or vegetable farms. A full organic farming system are being practiced, using all the simple logical biological and traditional know-how process.
(38) From Solo, I bought the Bengawan Solo song compact disc, by Yahya Tantowi, in the country version. I have a look at the river, and could personally confirmed, the nature of the long dried Solo river in the dry period, while the water spilt over the valley then down to the sea faraway in the monsoon. But I don’t see the traders perahu, except the sand mining boxes. Solo is well known for its batik industry.
(39) In both Cities, I love their Nasi Lewet, using the traditional ‘lauk’, normally kampong fowl, fried kangkung, fermented duck egg (black), with long bean and tauhu soup. Both Solo and Yogjakarta serve great black coffee. There are numerous good Padang Restaurants in Solo and Yogjakarta. Lately I heard the Wong Solo restaurant chain, and would explore on such in the future!
(40) In the first visit, we took the train from Yogjakarta to Jakarta, to have the feel of the rural landscape of Java. All along the ways, I could see the creativity of the Javanese and surely the land pressure that the Java Island is facing with the emerging pupolation growth and urban sprawl. I could see a great depression in the future, if concerted and courageous initiatives are not taken now. Probably, the Indonesian should take some que from the Chinese and Singapore experiences in restructuring their traditional villages and liberating most of the land for much rewarding economic return to the people.
(41) Along the way, we did drop by at Blitar, the mausoleum of Suharto. While Yogjakrta is the burial place for Sukarno (I tend to be corrected here).
(42) From these visits, I hope to see a real integrated agro-tourism development coming up soon in Buntal Peninsula and spread over the whole Sarawak thereafter, adopting simple Solo method, and Solo skilled agro-workers.
(43) In 2009, I decided to make an extensive visit to the far east of Indonesia. This lag of the journey began on the 7 June, 2009 at 1730 hours through Kuala Lumpur 1745 hours. It seem that, I didn’t lost a moment of my journey time, since Jakarta is one hour behind Kuala Lumpur time zone. I was joined by a friend and a tour agent then. Thereon, I asked the driver to take me to Nyi Iteung restaurant, for a special Javanese Food, nasi lewet, specially cooked spice rice, nice taken with fried kampong fowl, and keluban, a Javanese salad, which I have long missed, made of boiled tapioca leaves, bean sprouts, young papaya leave, long bean, desiccated fresh coconut, and hot peanut gravy (really remind me of my mom and granny).
(44) Since I have ample times to roam around in Jakarta, thus, I decided to check on the Mekarsari, just about half to one hour drive out of Jakarta. Agro-tourism is the main theme of the Place. Various types of fruit orchard: star fruit, mangosteen, durian, jack fruit, rambutan, various types of citrus, vegetables, including fruits such as rock melon and honey dew are planted on this about 390 acres of land. This Place is very popular among the housewives, since they could ‘pick and pay’ for their chosen fresh fruits and vegetables. Interestingly, there is a section, I believe about 10-20 acres old coconut area being transformed into kids Extreme Sport facilities. Nice to see those kids aged 5-12 years old being treated to some thrilling experiences going through the bamboo air-walk, flying fox, swinging air-bridge walk, and all sorts; while the mothers are chit-chatting among themselves nearby. I believe, this Mekarsari is a great idea not only to bring mothers together but most important to provide a place where we could build our kids sense of confidence and courage which are very missing nowadays. I’m thinking of such facilities be established soon for our kids in Kuching.
(45) By 1700 hour on the 8 June, 2009, I left for Mataram, Lombok via Surabaya, an Island eastern to Bali. Upon arrival, we rushed to a restaurant in town. Eaten a plate of large size cockles and crabs, the size 2-3 times larger then those I usually taken back home. I hardly could finish one arm of the crab. It is so big and very fleshy.
(46) The next day, I started roaming the Island by 0800 hour, to have a feel of the aren ( ijuk or enau (?)) industry. Aren, is just another palm tree that grows wild here, and being process into flour which has special characteristic that is great for the making of clear noodle. Going big for this product seems to be though, as there is no contiguous aren growing area, and road network seem to be undeveloped.
(47) One interesting to note here in Lombok is the farming of kangkung, which is done exactly like rice farming, no elsewhere have I seen this practice: Sawah Kangkung. Apart of the Aren flour, Gula Aren is another products popularly traded here. The making of Gula Aren is equal to the making of Gula Apong (Nipah) and or Gula Jawa (Melaka/Coconut). Gula Aren is widely used in making cakes and sometimes serves as brown sugar.
(48) At lunch time, I have my lunch at Lesehan, which, in Javanese, lesehan means a place of resting. I don’t want to miss my keluban, which is called pelecin, here in Lombok. Here, at the Lesehan, one could fish and have whatever they fished, be prepared and taken in-situ. In the late afternoon, I took a break, having black coffee at a Lesehan by the cliff looking down to the Bali Sea. Here they sell roasted jagung kampong (the old hardy variety maize) and fried-boiled yellow tapioca. The tapioca really tastes great, milky, and lovely sweet. Great to appreciate black coffee in the old kampong days, with gorengan singkong and jagung, while watching the sun set slowly down under the sea.
(49) At 1400 hour on the 10 June, 2009, I headed back westward for Surabaya, then flown across the Flores Sea, and landed in Makasar, the capital of South Sulawesi, then crossed the Southern part of Sulawesi to Kendari, the main town of South East Sulawesi. I settled down in Kendari at about 1700 hours and got the chance to have a glimpse of the Bird of Paradise ‘resting trees’. Not much of these trees are found here, but there is a special variety that worth to consider, with much gigantic and healthy look. I believe, the ‘tree’, could be turned into greater money making products. Since Jusuf Kalla(JK) is in town, I have to shift to a nearby small lodging place.
(50) Beginning at about 0900 hour on the 11 June, 2009, I have the travel agent to take me to a brief tour of the Kendari town. We crossed over to the opposite site of the town and tour the mangrove areas. Here, I saw an opened-pond fish culture system, which could work in poor village alike back home. The idea is that the fish, would get their feed supplies from the incoming and out going tides, which is controlled through a flip-gate system. Among the mangrove tress, I saw a ‘Bird of Paradise’, which I’m calculating to get hold later in the future! A real beautiful, innocent kampong creature!
(51) At about 1630 hour on the 11 June, 2009 I flew back to Makasar, and landed at about 1800 hour. Once on the highway, heading for the City, the traffic were slowed down due to the presence of Bambang Susilo, the President, who is heading back to Jakarta, after his brief Presidential Campaign here. It was a real frustration, since I tried to reach the hotel which is located by the seaside, to get a good record of the nice sunset. In the evening, I have seafood, at the community-based eating place. The service at the Place was poor, as I believe, the management dependent on huge numbers of workers, labour intensive work culture, seem to generate wait-and-see attitude among the workers. Makasar is the homeland of the Bugis.
(52) Actually along the way, while queuing on the Highway, I tried to figure out the term, the origin of the term Bugis and Makasar. I explored the idea of the word Bengis, but due probably the strong windy Island environment, the term evolved to Bugis, while Makasar, could be derived along the same meaning ie Muka Kasar. The driver and his assistant in fact informed me that, in the past, the Spanish, Dutch, and Portuguese were scared of the Bugis for their great resistance for the later occupation. They were really fierce and put up real fierce fight to deter these western conquests. Even in English, the term bogey, the bogeyman is derived from the term Bugis. But, to add spice to the talks, the driver assistant who is a Makasar himself, defined BUGIS as Banyak Uang Ganti Isteri!
(53) From those villages that I managed to visit, both in Kendari and Makasar, it is crystal clear that the Bugis are sea roaming community. The Bugis seem to love colours, and their boats are very colourful. No wonder, even the fish here are very colourful, easily spotted swimming in schools, on those blue-greenish shallow coral sea bed.
(54) By 1230 hour on the 12 June, 2009, I took a plane to Ambon, after crossing for about one and half hour the Buru Sea, landed at Pattimura Airport by 1530 hour. From Ambon, thereon my Celcom communication is cut-off. At least now, I’m at peace not connected to home. Ambon time is an hour a head of Makasar. Since it was getting dark, I rushed to a ferry point, and at about 1830 hour, sailed for Kiratu Kambu, which is located on the main Island of Seram. Seram is the second largest Island after Halimathera of the Malucas.
(55) The ferry journey from Ambon to Kiratu at these odd hours is really an amazing experience. I have not sailed in the open sea at this moment for so long, since my kid days. As the ferry snail into the open sea, the sun light on the western horizon began to change colour from bright white to slowly yellowish, then reddish. As the sun begin lowering behind the globe, the lining chain of mountains, turn into gigantic dark body. While on the eastern side of the globe, the blue sky slowly turn soft pinkish and darken as the sun buried himself deep down under.
(56) The hot sea air, slowly turn to cool breeze with the lowering of the sun. The strength of the wind mounted as the night turned darker. Accordingly, on the eastern corner, the moon began to emergence with sparkling crown princes of stars taking turn showing themselves in clusters.
(57) By 0800 hour on the 13 June, 2009 I left for a ride along the coast of the Seram Island. Along the way, stopped at many points and walked deep to the hills to search for the Bird of Paradise. But, I can’t even get a glimpse of the Bird of Paradise, the bird is absence from this archipelago of Islands, and I wonder why, though its has its name in this local dialect? I saw only those interesting Trees which are very gigantic and have given lives for the Seram population. The soil here is dark sandy, but wet. Along the hillside, it seem perfect for the growing of bananas. Cocoa and coconut are the main money making crops here.
(58) At Kiratu market place, I saw lots of gigantic banana (at least 50% larger from our normal pisang kapok size), signifying my earlier notion that Seram is a great place for banana plantation development, and some interesting ball-like form of preserving the boiled tapioca, bamboo shoots, male papaya florescence, etc. Various types of yam and tapioca are sold here. Seeing the keladi betawi remind me of the 1960s old hardship: boil, pound, mix with desiccated coconut, the getok. and taken with black coffee.
(59) Off the coast, tuna fishing is very popular. Groupers are abundant. Squid and crab (reddish species) seem to grow at very large size as compared to those at home. Most of the fishes here are colourful, and I lost my appetite taking those colourful fish. I prefer to go for roasted or deep fried kampong fowl.
(60) On my journey to Masohi, a midway town of Seram, I met two beautiful off springs of the ‘Bird of Paradise’. Their eyes are sharp, clean, dark, but, reflecting a clear sign of ‘uncertainty of life’. I was touched with the life that they are going through. They carried no toy, they ate no ice cream, far more chocolate, though their parents produced cheap cocoa for the world. They carried tasteless Sago Pancake (tumpik) replacing all those town kids items.
(61) Here, the International donors, seem not to bother about poverty, but are more interested to build monuments symbolizing their generosity and holly thought, but leaving the people in deep poverty, so as to continue to manipulate them into the far future! I really felt sick discovering how my ‘cute cenderawasih’ being treated.
(62) At Masohi, I ate at Gamelama Ternatte, a cute eating place by the sea, built by a mixed family of a Ternatte (Pak Hamid) and a Javanese. Here I met Chandra (the daughter) and Aftan (the son) who can really sing. They sang the Seram song, which sound like the Hawaiian. The songs, and the way they sing, which blend well with the breezing sea wind, make me fallen blue.
(63) It takes about 2,000-3,000 km to circle the whole Seram Island. Hopefully one day I’ll make it.
(64) At 0530 hour on the 14 June, 2009 I left for the ferry for Ambon. After having the real nice nasi kuning which is equivalent to nasi dagang of the Kelantanese, with black coffee, I boarded the ferry around 0600 hours. The ferry expected to depart at such time, but only to start the engine by 0730 hours. This is a real Third World, uncertainty is expected and punctuality is a celebrative joy!
(65) Nonetheless, this ferry trip completed my sunset and sun rise opened sea travel. At his hours, as compared to the last two days trip, I could really appreciate the dark-turned-bright scene of the day. Similarly, I could also have the benefit of enjoying the cold-turned-warm sea breeze. It is really amazing to see, from the far horizon, all those dark bodies, slowly being brighten up by the rising sun. The sky, slowly turned pinkish, then getting mixed whitish-bluish, then all the lining hills and mountains slowly going blue-green. The sleepy cold dawn breeze rush passed my face, with the temperature increasing accordingly with the height of the sun. It was really a warming feeling.
(66) I reached Ambon by 0830 hours, and head for the look out of the Tree. In this Island, there is these two Trees that I’m interested. But, I only managed to see one, and left the other one for others to pick up soon.
(67) Ambon, is the birth place of Broery Marantika (Widuri), Bob Tutopoly (Memang Lidah Tak Bertulang), Grace Simon (Mawar Berduri, if not mistaken), and many others. Lots of Indonesian national level singers were born here. Afan and Chandra, the two at Masohi, are good natural artistic talent of the Malucas.
(68) Malucas, their spices: lada, cengkih, pala, kayu manis, etc were the reason, why the Dutch invaded this part of the world. Strong heritage of the Dutch are presence here, and every year, in July, the Teluk Ambon will be flooded with sea surfers from all over the world, especially the Dutch and Ausie.
(69) The nite, at about 2100 hour, I have roasted duck by the road side. Thereon, I went over to an Old Folk Karaoke House, by the seaside. Beautiful Melayu Delis and Maluku songs broke the silence of the nite. The Molucas, they really can sing. To close the Ambon night, a friend told me a joke: In Indonesia, POLITIC, leave it to the Javanese, TRADING, let the Padang and Bugis do it best, to RECITE the Quran, then pass over to the Maduras, but, after the long days works, get the Amabon. They entertain you best!
(70) At 0430 on the 16 June, 2009 I left for the Ambon airport leaving for Jakarta via Makasar. It takes an hour and forty minutes to touch down at Makasar. After, the good 20-30 minutes transit, and after having a quick Cotto Makasar I boarded over to Jakarta. Cotto Makasar is just the same as sotto, except the rice is cooked as a ketupat, and the ketupat case is made of pandan leaf, not the young coconut leaves. Not only the taste is good, but the pandan flavour makes it taste better.
(71) After the touched down in Jakarta at 1100 hour Jakarta time, I was met with the same driver that previously picked me up. Thereon, I went over to the Block M area and have Traditional Javanese Lulur. I want to try the full package. The service take about two hours, the lulur and botok (totok ?), ie facial treatment make my skin feel fresh and my stiff muscles loosen up. It cost me about RM60.00 only, real affordable! Since my next day flight is at 1645 hour, I make my mind to have a look at Puncak, a cool mountain place famous for it tea and vegetable farms. But along the way, I changed the Plan, and headed for Bandung instead. It takes two hours to reach there.
(72) In Bandung, while searching around to appreciate the so called Gallery and Home Garden Restaurant, taken me uphill through the narrow lane, full of Nurseries with lots of beautiful ornamental plants. The breeze was cold and fresh. It rain awhile ago before my arrival. I landed at the Peak (also Puncak!). Got me a nice Betawi Villa, just to have a feel of my root, over looking both Bandung and Lembang down the valley. Three bedrooms, cost me RM500.00, well just want have a great old Betawi days sleep, I gave it a go!
(73) Since the night was still young (2200 hours in fact), I went to see the so called Kampung Daun, about 3-5 kilometers down the hill. This Kampung Daun is really a heaven on earth! I ordered for ais goring, pisang goring keju, kopi item, and really enjoy the accompanying cool jungle environment. Yehh…it turned me blue as well!
(74) Prior leaving for the airport, I take times to go through the Bandung Nurseries, appreciating the Sundanese skills in turning bamboo into all sort of landscaping items, the plants, either ornamental or herbal purposes, trees, shrub, land or water plants are found here. All those trees and plants back home which were claimed to come from far north, seem to be abundant here, I begin to wonder, make me real wondering, here, our treasures being traded and claim as others? Wondering over the morality of trade and honesty of our nurseries back home? No wonder, most of their workers, majority come from this Garuda land. Just that we never look at these that way, probably! Or we don’t bother!
(75) My flight back to KLIA depart at 1845 on the 17 June, 2009 and touched down home by 1945….mathematically an hour flight, but in reality, is a two hours! How?
(76) After these far journey, now I could concluded that how beautiful is God creation of this naturally endow Indonesia immediately accessible to our nation. Their people, their numbers and creativities are something that we must honour well. We were created to complement and let think and work hard that way. Let put our hands together before He turns His face from us for not thinking and taking fast!
Seram-Ambon-Bandung
13-16 June, 2009
Popular
Tags
Videos
0 comments:
Post a Comment