At 0700 hours local time ie 0800 hours Malaysian, I have my breakfast. At 0730 hour a tuk-tuk came over to the hotel to pick me up to the Bus Terminal about 10 minutes ride away. We departed to Luang Prabang by 0900 hours. A nice 45 seaters bus, with aircon but with no WC. See how the journey line will catch up soon. I was the only foreigner in the bus. The rest are all locals. All in about 30 of us. Ample seats to move around except the strategic one.
(2) The outskirt of Vientien is totally different than Vientien itself. Along the way ie about 20-30 minutes away from the City, there seem to have lots of mansions. This landscape make me wonders, there are the very rich among the generally poor socialist State. Are they really rich or because of labour cost is cheap such that construction cost can be very much economical. I don’t have the chance to verify that.
(3) One thing interesting about the Laos home architecture, the roof is basically of limas or bangsal style. Some are of Perak cutting. But, compared to ours back home, they are much creative in making the roofing into many layers or step down especially at the entrance. The Kelantan's home design have similarity with such architecture. Serambi serani ie the semi-hexagonal frontage extension is popular among the mansions. This design is in fact very popular in Sarawak. Has the ancient Langkasuka Kingdom has something to do with this spread of architecture within the South East Asia? Students of the Archiceture or Fine Art probably should study and document all these. I can lend some of my shots.
(4) Nothing interesting for the first three hours journey. Similar settlements structure are observed all along the way with paddy fields marks the distance green scenery. The landscape is flat. Marks of recent flooding is observed. I took that ample time to write on the topic from Madrasah to Academy, despite haggling with the winding and bumping bus movement avoiding those damaged road. I just want to try something very different than usual, writing while in the bumpy bus.
(5) At about 1400 hours, we began to climb the mountain areas. I can’t wait to describe these superb experiences. High in the mountain, the bus move as if we are riding on an elephant back. Have you try before? The rolling nature of the uneven road surface makes me rock on the chair. My body need to be very flexible and to move easily with such a rhythm or else I’ll badly needing a massage. I hardly sit back in the chair, rather siting straight and let my waist dancing as flexible as possible. It is just like having a belly dancing. My camera is always on standby mode. My eyes keep following all the passing sceneries for the best shot. Unfortunately, earlier own I gave way to a mother with young kid of my front left right seat. I have to be happy to occupy the middle seat, which is to my very photographic disadvantage.
(6) In the bus there is a young mother whom probably just gave birth a couple of months back. She kept vomiting. She sits next to me. Gotch, vomiting in an aircon bus, I just try hard to stand the odour. To her front, her relatives I guessed: a boy and a girl. I have been observing all through the way, the kids had nothing to eat. They just galloped the mineral water and small pack of biscuit given by the bus operator earlier. They look very skinny. Later the little girl just curled and slept the whole way, and I believe because she was probably hungry.
(7) At about 1400 hours, a stopped by was made. I just rushed out to get myself some drink and something to chew. I resort to a can of fringles and sprite. As the bus move, I began with the American lunch, but then I realised the two kids keep starring at my sprite and fringles. Gotch, I can’t take it. I just passed those to them and they really enjoy it.
(8) After quite sometimes in the winding mountain road, the bus made a sudden stop. People just rushed down. I looked out, see nothing, and wonder why people going out. I saw few ladies dashing into the bush. Gotch, they just want to ease themselves in the bush. Really this remind me of a trip in Papua New Guinea with my laies friends last five years. They have to help themselves in the bush!
(9) Actually about half an hour leaving the City, my mind was decepted by those nice big mansions. I thought, Laos is not a bad State. The people seem well to do. But as the bus enter the mountain area, my heart seem want to fail. Here is the true image of Laos. Poverty, hardship and probably 1001 development gaps began to show the colours.
(10) The people homes are merely made of bamboo and grass roof. Built along the edge of the Highway. All are simple structures. Firewood are piling, indicating olden day source of fuel. I can’t believe my eyes. They are not even where we are in the 1960s. Except for the electricity and satelite tv, I presumed they are 60-70 years behind us. The homes are on stilt. Chicken and duck are raised under the house. Some houses, they turned the kolong into noon resting place. Must be nice in the breezing noon, especially after lunch or during afternoon family tea break. The only issue is, do they have such?
(11) The people look small. Their body built are small and skinny. They look real small, probably of our Penan average. Marriage at the very young age seem rampant. I figured this when observing through the window, lots of young girls are breast feeding small kids. They should be mother then. The kids are not well clothed. Most small boys are running around pantless. I figure and spalshing back Epit in Lat cartoon or Chot in Mingguan Malaysia. In Papua New Guinea, they are just being called lik-lik monkey: literally means little monkey.
(12) Kampong foul, ducks, cattle and buffaloes seem abundant. Some wild pigs are kept in cages. I don’t quite seeing dogs. Both wet and hill paddy are grown by the locals. Element of shifting cultivation is observed. Maize and cassava are planted as intercrops. In some patches, rubber were planted in a very traditional manner. Other than teakwood farms, I couldn’t see any other large scale agriculture enterprises.
(13) At about 1500 hours, the bus began to climb up the mountain area. We hit the lime stone mountain ridges. The bus travelled slowly on the many sharp curves. It is a real winding journey. One can see deep ravines along the ways. Road failures are observed all through. Scary. But my personal experienced driving along the old Bentong Road in the 1970s, Rocky Mountain Trail in Aspen, as well as those crossing Mt. Kinabalu to Sandakan and the Papua New Guinea ridges make me a bit relief. The rain had caused a lot of erosion and land slides. Added the bumpy road, more and more people start to vomit. I’m glad that the young mother and the two kids had fallen asleep. At least the vomiting guys are not too close to me. I really need to hold up to my breath. The bus windows are fixed type. That make thing worst.
(14) I divert my mind to appreciate the nice rugged and choppy limestone hills and mountains. The limestone outcrops stretches miles and miles into the distance. With the backdrop of the clear blue sky, with patches of mist, turns the scenery into Miles High Mountain Blue. A real High Chaparral feeling. The Colorado Rocky Mountain twin. John Denver strumming the country guitar Take Me Home Country Road seem whispering in the breezy air. Again, the bus is not a tourist friendly. Love to feel the natural cool mountain air. The window glass is thick, and not clear through. Taking great photos becoming very uneasy, mostly frustrating in fact.
(15) Along the way, by the road edges, grass and bamboo homes line the landscape. Can’t imagine if by carelessness, the homes got knock off by the traffic, everything will just plunge into the ravine. These homes are just a nose-drive distance by the road side. Equally bad if there are fire, the whole village might be in flame just a matter of minutes. I don’t see any sign of emergency services nearby.
(16) It may look like a resort if one take a village view from a distance, nonetheless, for the local, I believe it is a symbol of a misery lives. Bare footed kids are running around, just as the chicken and ducks that they have. Elder people seem starring into the distance by the door steps. Women washing by the road side stand pipes. The male either lazily appreciating their cigarette by the road side chit-chating among themselves in cluster or just squatting observing their playful young. A real Village lives. Daily probably just the same. I once a lifetime passerby, see that as beauty, but they are screaming hard in silence helplessly. My world and their world, the two different world. My view their view, a divergent views. I composed A nomadic poem for them
(17) Somewhere at a safe corner, the bus again made a sudden stop. My mine now is quite familiar with the trend. Looking out, I almost laugh. Ladies dishing into the lalang. Laddies, mind you guys, doing their business in the lalang, if you can try it, then you know what I mean! What a very ladyless feeling is this bus operator! But the ladies, buat dek je: seem accepting and very indifferent. That is life in this high mountain country. (Hey I'm still have my humane caution, I don't snap them, well again I missed that National Geographic Award Winning Shot!)
(18) I noticed, along the way, there are cavandish and golden-type of banana being grown here. My mind then began to wonder, did Dole really came out of that Cavandish variety or they just made a discovery from these mountains region? One day, I may take my friend here to start a colection on banana varieties so that we could really establish a Banana Republic.
(19) Later at another stop over, a small City by a lake, with line of stalls selling all sort of fresh water fish, fresh, dried and fermented, I bought enough foods and drinks for the two kids and their young aunty. Now they became very active, because I believe they are no more hungry. They then became my super curious friends a real Lik-lik Monkey especially when they see me busy with my camera and the PC. I shown them those photos that I have taken along the journey since the 24 August. They are really cute kids, and you need to hold your breath once they are close to you. Again, the KPI for the hard lives that they are experiencing.
(20) As the journey seem never ending, my battery running low, the day light gone, the bus light not as bright, I can’t do much. The two kids had gone curling asleep. I fall to the darkness as well and when I woke up, I found my two friends and the aunty had gone missing. I presumed they had dropped off somewhere when I was deep in sleep.
(21) Just about at the outskirt of the Luang Prabang City, the bus was stopped by the police. Some luggage was asked to be off load. An inspection was made. For what? Travelling within the same State, is this really necessary? I then realise, this is a socialist State, security authority is supreme. I decided to keep numb. A motorbike seems to be confiscated. Quiet sometimes wasted for all the paper works. Through the window, I could see, private discussion also being made, while the other police officer is attaining to the report. Poor bus driver, he got his day.
(22) Reached the City at about 22.30 hours. Got a tuk-tuk and the operator later was asking for K15,000. I have no hesitation: ”Pay first” was the order given to me before I go on board. That sound weird. But, I have just been in a long tiring journey, so what is K15,000 which is equivalent to U$2.00 or RM6.00. I just pay him off, but later only I discovered instead of giving him K15,000.00 instead I have over paid him ie K50,000. No wonder he grabbed the money fast and move on as quickly. Interesting. This is what Muhammad SAW have been warning:”Poverty creates dishonesty or even kufur”. Should you not friend, if you are a Muslim be a leader to fight against poverty and misery?
(23) Here in this wee hours, at the Riverview Lodge, after a nice hot shower, on the ala-Batawi bed, makes me feel like home, in my own bed room, and I finished off this articles. I’m in real hunger, but nothing to feed. Need just to resort to plain water.
(24) This article is launched at River View Lodge a real nice traditionally built place. I have the Mekong fast running view with a friendly and helpfull waitress name Sundari. She is cute, fair.....real cute as Sheila Majid, my shoulder height. She remind me of someone faraway. I sat by a table next to the dirty cruel American war monger, the war bomb shell. All made in America.
luang prabang, laos
1 sept., 2011
Luang Prabang, Laos
1 Sept, 2011
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