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14/8/11 CHALLENGING MYSELF

Posted By: Abdullah Chek Sahamat - September 05, 2011

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(Alin Nest Home, where I broke my usual eating habit, taking Ice Cream and Milked Ice Tea. But I learned new way of making Umai here, probably I will name it ABC Umai and when observing the ladies, just don't forget their toes!)
Looking back, I have rarely enjoyed spending the Aidil Fitri with my family. Since at the age of six years old, I have been missing having Aidil Fitri in the true family sense. My mom passed away when I was six, and that was the corner stone of the breaking of my family lives. In fact at the age of 13-24 years old, I have been 1,000 ++ kilometers away from home and thus had been missing the family-nature Aidil Fitri. Despite at 25-32 I used to celebrate Aidil Fitri with my grandma, later till age 40 years old, I do have my Aidil Fitri with my small family. Life surely was much meaningful then. Luqman and Dewi, my two kids, they really brigthened my Aidil Fitri once it comes. Nonetheless, since 2002 to date, my Aidil Fitri was again always away from home, except last year (2010), the first in my life time, to have Aidil Fitri at my own home with my Kampung folks.

(2) This year (2011), anticipating a possible truely hard life ahead, personally and officially, I decided to challenge myself to the hardest, especially at this year Ramadhan and early Syawal. I decided to test both my mental and physical endurance, to see the route that I may take for the next journey of my future lifeline.

(3) First, starting with the first three days of Ramadhan, I made a hard trip to the rugged, winding, cold, and backward interior of Bandung, Indonesia. My encounter with the poor, hard, rural lives of Bandung, at least gave me a real perspective of the True Bandung, which is not at all only about golf, girls, gourmets, and all sorts of goodies, but the greater gruesome of the though rural lives. I have placed my entry on these in the close past. The image of a father carrying his two sleeping half naked daughters over his shoulder on a hot road path, couple with the long discovered image of a young daughter in Seram Island, whom just afford to enjoy hard dry sago pancake, instead of ice cream or other cookies, took my soul into staunch.

(4) MasyaAllah. SubhanaAllah, there are still too many things that we have not done for the greatness of the general human being. There are too many human out there whom have not come to being, worst even to enjoy the basic welbeing.

(5) InsyaAllah from today, 24 August till 12 September, I would love to travel by all means to discover myself, taking the rail route from Hatyai, Thailand to Vientien of Laos through Udon Thani in the North East of Thailand. Thereon, I would love to take on Luang Prabang, the old historical city on north-center of Laos. Taking the Mekong either by train, road and boat, I would go down stream to Phnom Phen, the Cambodian capital city. My original plan was to travel from KL to all these places by train but, KTM really have no seat for me till the 3 of September.

(6) I choosen Thailand, Laos and Cambodia not Europe or Arab as my Ramadhan and Syawal Endurance test, is basically as I said, I want a peak test. These are countries that had been betrayed and even used to deceive neighboring friends. Seeing how betrayal operates from the State point of view probably would give me the greater wisdom how human act to betray each others. I'm going alone to understand the Pol Pot hard view points in liberating his country from all those evils fit to his eyes.

(7) Doing this trip alone, would be a crazy thought to some. It is not actually. My grandpas had crossed over the Strait of Malacca and Natuna Sea at the height of the Dutch hatred to the hard headed locals, yet they made it. So what is there to be worry too much moving around in this much better environment. Just, I anticipate, communication would be the biggest challenge. I need to overcome this communication barrier smartly to reach to my destiny. Thailand, Laos and Cambodia are not English speaking nations. Secondly, especially in the month of Ramadhan, getting proper Halal food would be though. Pork is sort of a must dish in these nations. To get non-pork food would be very difficult especially when travelling in rural and smaller towns. I may have to resort to more fruits and biscuits. Nonetheless, that would also help to get ride of all those fat out grow from my body. Thirdly, these countries pray on American Dollar rather their motherland currencies. Taking photos of kids or even to get a cane of coca-cola would cause at least a dollar each. Every beautiful shot would then be very costly. My three months stay in 1992 in Thailand and 2007 Vietnam trip signified all these. I hope to capture lots of life inspiring shots to share with many.

Day I: 24 August, 2011:

Packed with travelling light in mind, except for the camera and note book accessories, plus a pack of Royal Jelly and Only for Men Supplementary, I left my home as early as 0600 hours this morning. I need to attend to few urgent matters in the Office as well as three early morning meetings. I was very happy indeed all the three critcal investment matters arising from the three meetings which quite sometimes had derailed my Emotional Inteligent, had at least being given a very fruitful thought. I do hope, they just execute all those decissions the fastest for the good of themselves, if not for the nation.

(2) I left the office by 1430 heading for the Kuching airport, after having a small nice talk with a friend. A friend whom I wish and believe one day will take my thought and spirit in a much successful way. I hope, this friend could take it, and be determined with it.

(3) The MAS ground staff by the name of Tini really amazed me. She deserved my gratitute. Official or non-official, I used to travel on Budget Class ticket. But, once there are long queues at the Economy Class check-in points or the auto machines are cram, I would normally check-in through the Business Class Counter. Tini whom that day mains the Business Class Counter, she just passed me my ticket even before I could gave her my Identity Card. This is her second, I would say Beyond Excellent Treatment to me. When I queried how come she knew my flight details, her reply was really something that we must be greatly appreciate:”I used to notice you. You are a frequent traveller. I remember your name. I can guess where you are going”. In normal circumstances, the Counter Lady always having problem to track my flight reference, since my booking is always made using my surname, while my MyCard doesn't carries my surname. Malaysian, we practice the Western Style, yet we still local as we are lacking in fulfillment of many requisites!

(4) In fact there is only one Tini here at this Kuching airport, I mean the Tini’s attitude: observant, dedicated, most important she really facilitate. I really respect her for her great service. Upon getting my ticket, after walking a distant away, I turned back and get her to tell me her name, for me to record here as part of my discoveries. Congratulation Tini. Keep up. Malaysia is really proud to have citizen as you!

(5) Touching down at KLIA, anticipating a bad traffic jam along the way, I boarded the ERL to KL Central. I just want to catch up to have breakfasting with a friend and most important, I want to get a new macro lenses for my camera. My carelessness made me have to buy the ERL ticket twice. Once before boarding, but later, as I want to exit, I found out, I may have dropped the ticket somewhere, thus I need to get a new ticket to enable me to pass through the check-out point.

(6) Nice to take the ERL down to KL especially passing those farms belonging to the UPM Serdang Campus. In the mid 1980s, I used to have ROTU training at UPM campus, and sure, during the durian season, a small army party of mine really practiced our survival skills going after the durians and those security guards. We usually got caught, but we also having no problem to get away. Those naughty days drum into my long almost forgotten memories.

(7) I have my late breakfasting at Nandos at MidValley. Later I went over to MPH to redeem my bonus and got myselve two books The Healing Code by Alexander Lyod and The Secret Language of Your Body by Inna Segal and the map of Laos and Cambodia. I hope the books will give me some ideas later to be shared with others.

Day 2: 25 August, 2011

Leaving the Cititel at about 0800 hours in the morning, arrived at the LCCT an hour later. Upon check in, my legs pain dragged me to a Reflexology Center operated by the blind next to the International check point. While my legs are being entertain, I go through The Healing Code book, and some interesting notions were put forward: diseases or sickness are mainly due to three factors ie the breakdown of the Body Immunity System, the Stress, and the Heart. But profoundingly, the Heart is the cause of the most diseases or sicknesses. I’ll write on this once I have a bit of time later.

(2) The flight to Hatyai departed at 1145 hours, and landed at about 1145 hours. Mathematically, it sound like we took no minute to touch down at Hatyai, but in real fact the earlier 1145 hour is a Male time while, the later 1145 hours is a Sie time. The time different between Kuala Lumpur and Hatyai or Bangkok is one hour, ie Bangkok time is one hour later than Kuala Lumpur. The flight from KL to Hatyai is an hour journey. I seem to loose no time.

(3) I took a cab to the hotel at a cost of B300.00 ie about RM35.00. Quiet a reasonable price. The taxi driver was very friendly. He can speak a bit of Malay ie Pattani in fact. Interestingly at one of the traffic light, a motorbike didn’t make the move despite the green light had shown for quiet sometimes. Suddenly he said: ”Melaka sungguh!”. I asked him what he means. He said: ”Saya marah dia. Dia Melaka sungguh. Green light no move”. I just smile to myself, guessing what he meant probably: ”Celaka sungguh”. I don’t have to teach him the exact harsh word and let him forever with his Melaka sungguh. Datuk Ali Rustam should be happy for he is giving a free advertisement on Melaka.

(4) ”You no plan tonight? Want happy-happy?” he sounded me then. I told him I need to organise my next movement. I need to go to the Railway Station to book for my ticket to Bangkok, and would want just to stroll around the hotel area by the night. ”If want happy-happy, I can take you to my friend house. See girls. You can eat and go out with girl” he later added. That sound familiar even if one board a taxi from the Bangkok airport to the city. I just thank him for the invitation and check into the hotel urgently

(5) Around 1500 hours, I went off to the Railway Station. I took a Tuk-tuk a modified motorcycle into a small roofed van. It cost me B40.00 to reach there. After waiting for quiet sometimes, as the counter girl, despite three of them only one seem to work, need to entertain the angmo longer time due to his over friendliness. The train ride to Bangkok is about 18 hours. Depart at 1610 and 1645 hours daily. The night travelling is of my no interest. We can have a choice of First, Second and Third Class cabin. The First and Second Class is with double decker sleeping bed. The fare for the First Class is B1,350.00. Nonetheless, the only seat available is on Sunday 27 August. I then decided to take a bus ride which is only 14 hours at B950.00 and the journey begins at 0800 hours. Luxury bus coaches here are serving even as far as Singapore and Penang. A good network of the luxury coaches seem well established here. One even can just book a bus right to the border of Cambodia, Laos and even Burma. Riding on the day, at least to my expectation I could see the Thai country-side. Worth then to have my camera on my shoulder.

(6) Later I just strolled taking lane after lane of the Hatyai streets. Hatyai seem to be a quiet town in the day. It is a sprawling low rise city. The businesses I would say are very traditional. Saloons are all over the places, printing, carving, textiles, workshops, eateries, and within the hotel enclaves, all those reflexology and massage centers. Hatyai, as I was informed by a Malaysian businessman who sited next to me in the plane, 40 percent of the business are controlled by Malaysian. I’m not quite sure of that.

(7) At night, Hatyai is different. Lively, busy but limited to certain streets. Factory outlets goods are sold along the streets. You name it, they almost have all the branded names, but fake. One have to have a good bargaining skill once they shop or even hoping into a tuk-tuk. Price seem always need to be cut down to even 60-70 percent from what they offer. My style is to pretend not to be too interested, and moving away just slowly. One will see how the price then drops like water from the sky.

(8) For the Muslim, staying at either Regency, Lee Garden or Novotel is perfect. At night, lots of Mosolim stalls selling all sort of Halal Food being set-up along the corridor of these hotels. I enjoy taking the smoke sweet and fragrant coconut, especially after the long thirsty day.

(9) Nice to hear the azan surrounding this 20 percent mosolim city. I tried to locate the mosque from the 31 floor of the hotel. A far distance away, at the outskirt of the city, there seem to be a big mosque facing the Songkla Bay. Nonetheless, the sound of the echoe of the azan, there seem to be at least 3-4 mosques around the city.

(10) I went down to have the late breakfasting. Bought myself two slices of water melon costing about B40.00 which was about RM5.00, I would say, those are much expensive as compared the RM1.00 per slice I used to have in Kuching. Asking around for a mosolim restaurant, the fruit stall operator whom is a mosolim told me that all are closed: ”You naa, ambik tuk-tuk, go far, say China Mosolim restaurant. Good food. Halal.”.

(11) I approached the stop by tuk-tuk. ”China Restaurant kun. How much?, practicing my Thai-lish (Thai-English). ”B(V)elly far. B100. Want?”, a killing replied. I just shook my head, don’t look back, and walk a distance to another tuk-tuk. I got there by just B30.00. See the trick, it worked and that is the practice. Indochina, Petaling Street, they have the same business language.

(12) The real name of the restaurant is Net Home at 194 Niphatuthid 2 Rd. I have a nice green curry squid rice. My side orders were mango salad and banana leaf rapped tuna. I also order for Ice Green Tea. As I have anticipated, language became a bearer. Instead of a glass of Ice Green Tea, I got a big bowl of the Green Tea Ice Cream. Taking ice cream with rice? I smile and shake my head: ”Sorry ha sir. No Ice cream ha? Wrong ha?”, and again I ordered for the Ice Green Tea, but again, Milked Ice Tea arrived. Well, I just accept both, and really this was real out of my practiced. I never have milked drink after meal. Tonight I outliered my normal eating habit. But coincidently, my reading of the Muhammad SAW practiced, he discourage having milk immediately after heavy meal or even a drink especially the cold one.

(13) My expectation of the banana leaf rapped tuna was also a surprised. There is no banana leaf. The tuna was marinated in slices of lemon grass, with lime, onion, pounded peanut just as the mango salad used to be made. It was in fact, umai the Hatyai version. May be I should introduce this to the Melanau. It taste delicious though, but I just control my appetite or else I may run into my gastric trouble. The mango salad doesn’t taste familiar to me, some curry was added.

(14) It is drizzling out there. I decided to have early nice night rest and continue with my map study and going through The Healing Code. Tomorrow I need to leave for the Bus Terminal at 0700. I have an American-Thai-style sahur for tomorrow, Burger King and gelatine rice with mango!

Day 3: 26 August

Guess what? I didn’t change my watch hours. I still kept the Male instead of the Sie time. I thought Subuh here must be around 0630 hours Male time, but instead it was at 0530 hours. Thus I set my alarm clock at 0630 hours which is Male time. As I woke up, azan is already in the air. My Pulut Mangga, Fish Burger were untouched. My sliver dropped as I looked at the Pulut Mangga a Thai specialty that I never missed.

(2) I started my today journey fasting without sahur which will be very tough for me. I hope I could make it. My tummy will be very upset with my brain whom denied her, of her share, getting something to digest. I hope they don’t get mad at each other, or my legs will complain they can’t walk. My eyes would be just simple excused themself and claim, seleep kun.

(3) As I went down taking one of the lift to the lobby for early check-out, the lift walls were decorated with oily-look nice roasted piglet, with cups of ice cream nicely served on a table, and grill juicy buttered lobsters by the side. Gotch, really testing my day the very early day. MasyaAllah....let me have it, the challenge.

(4) I arrived at the Bus Terminal about an hour ealier. While waiting, I began to hunt something for my camera. My mind wonder, what and seeing stream of peole boarding and out-boarding the buses, then I realised why there are so much saloons in Thailand. The ladies here, they really care for their hair and nails. That later became the focus of my photo-candid.

(5) My expectation was a double decker coach, but to my surprise it was just a normal bus. Worst, the bus later picked and stopped at all over the places. But upon reading The Healing Code I just cool myself down. In Thailand everything seem flexible, because everything here easily being modified to suit the situation if not falsified.

(6) The journey seem quiet alright. I could see the progressive changes of the agriculture sector of Thai. From Golok to Surat Tani, in fact the agriculture landscape is just like Malaysia. Fishing and rubber plantation among the Muslim region (Narathiwat-Yala-Golok). Takbai, just opposite Tumpat in Kelantan is a big fisheries trading town. From Hatyai to Surat Thani, rubber and oil palm seem to dominate the landscape. I could noticed that paddy fields are now being quickly replaced by both the oil palm and rubber. In future, I visualise, rice will becoming more expensive as the supplies will not able to meet the demands. The way they plant rubber and oil palm is very different from Malaysia. There is a drain for every row of crops. This, I would believe is to adjust to the wet soil of the paddy field, but on the other side, won't be practical for mechanization. Lots of gigantic bulls with well care long curving horn are reared here. I believe this must be the old ploughing machine for the paddy fields.

(7) Recalling back my couple of earlier traveling from Golok to Hatyai, what I could figured out was the very reason why the Pattani Malays are still far backward than their much northern neighbourhoods. To me the Pattani, they are complacent with their fishing industry just like those previously in Kelantan, Kedah, Perlis, and Trengganu as well as those in Semera, Jemukan, Sebuyau, Beladin, Meludam, Kabong, even Daro, Mukah, Kuala Niah and Kuala Lawas, the Malays and Melanaus. The fishermen normally don't bother about developing or owning large tract of land. Their lives is the seas. Thus, normally their villages or even region later were inflitrated by farmers who came form far other places. Once this happening, then comflict later arise once they realised that they had been deprived of land ownership.

(8) I won't be surprise one day all those beautiful beaches and coastline from Golok to Songkla will be occupied by those coming from Bangkok. The key weaknesses here, due to their backward social standing, the Pattani focus to seclude themselves begging for Allah to help, yet, they themselves are passive bystanders. They pay more attention to spiritual schools and all those related matters. Everybody just dreams wanting to be an ustaz or ustazah, migrate to Malaysia or Middle east and hopefully they could make their live there. In fact, as I pointed out to Ustaz Yahya of Nare, they seriously lacking or neglecting developemnetlist thinker, thus much flooded with spiritual escapism leaders and followers. A real pitty. I could also see this now happening in many parts of Indonesia, surely Pakistan and Bangladesh. This in fact is the culture planted by Indra Ghandi in her effort to weaken the Muslim in India through the Usrah dan Tabligh movement. I bet, Taksin is aiming for this. Watch this Mr. Mahathir of Thailand. He is going to be much robust than Mahathir.

(9) From Surat Thani to Thapesake, the landscape change to coconut industry. Though their coconut estate seem lesser than my area in AsaJaya-SadongJaya-Sebuyau, but the industry here is much advanced. Lorries and lorries of peeled and whole coconuts trailed the highway. The husks are shredded into finer fibre materials, which I suspect being turn into gardening materials. Along the way, I could see piles and lorries of durians. In certain places, there are durian storage area where durian trading are taking places. Mangosteen, and many other fruits are sold along the Highway. Interestingly, these thick skin durian of Thailand is very much less odour, seem odourless. As you get closer to Bangkok, fruits taking the agriculture landscape.

(10) Also, judging from the many workshop along the road, there are lots of mechanical engineering modifying works are done here in Thailand. They seem to modified anything, from big truck to samller kubota ploughing machines. They are very creative in copying anything, even making the parrot birds to be much multi-colored. It come to my naughty though, I hope those beautiful girls from Chiang Mai-Chiang Rai are not human faked.

(11) From Thapesake onward, the dawn fast catching up. From here to Bangkok, which is at the Central Plain, paddy fields and fruits orchard taking place painting the scenic landscape.

(12) I was seated next to a nice young lady from Chiang Rai, a city close to the border with Myanmar. We hardly communicate for her even Thai-lish is real bad. We normally just smile to each others. A young lady, she can't stop drinking and eating all those tip-bits. Sometimes she offered me, but I just smiled to turned her offer down. I really being tested when she sipped the cool coke so deliciously. I try to explain: "Me, mosolim, no eat lunch this month", but greeted with a surprising face. "You Hatyai workin'?", I queried. She node. She smile. Sweet in fact. But, visual without verbal, thing just broke down. "What working?", I continue to ask. She hardly can explain. "Restaurant. Shopping Complex. Factory...and all sort that crossed my mind" I tried to suggest to help her out. "No. Night working", then was her replied. Well thereon, from the way she make-up and dressing, I could figure out, she must be a slave of those night owls.

(13) Surprisingly, despite not having my sahur, my tummy didn't give me any trouble. Except, all through the journey, the bus aircon was really in full blast, thus I began to feel cold and my lips feel cracking. My sliver felt thick and didn't taste clean. I then, avoid talking to hinder annoyance to the young lady. I just read and once a while doze off. "Good seleep ha" she always said to me once I woke up. We just smile.

(14) The bus reached the Southern Bangkok Bus Terminal at about 2330 hours. I quickly ran over to buy myself a mineral water for my late breakfasting. This is really great, today I'm fasting for about 18 hours, just like fasting on the poles in summer.

(15) Took a cab, with the initial destination for a hotel at Silom Street. The taxi driver whom hardly speak Thai-lish."My friend want talk you" and passed his handphone to me. "Hellow sir. Have book hotel? Silom no safety. Go my hotel, Condotel. Safety. Good hotel" was the suggestion on the other end. Why Silom not safe?" I began to query. I knew, lots of good modern hotels are located there. "No safety. No safety. Go my hotel. Safety. Cheaper" he insisted. I decided to give it a try. Later I found out, there might be some sporadic demonstration going on there. Thus, it is great to avoid the area. In fact, I don't intend to stay at Silom street, but more of the Sukumvit Street. I used to get confused between the two which is just close to each other. I remember Silom better due to the pronunciation is simpler.

(16) Upon checking in at Hotel at about 20 minutes later, I then immediately rushed to the small hotel's restaurant. I ordered Thai Ice Tea, and finished two glasses in few minutes. Later I ordered for steam rice, water spinach fried in garlic, oyster-bean sprout-egg pancake, boil mussels and raw oysters. Real delicious, but tongue burning. The chillies used were real killing. Scared of my gastric attack, I just avoid to be greedy. I just ate a bit. Remembering that the kangkong might come from those backyard klong I really just avoid taking much, though kangkong is my favourite.

(17) The hotel has a small restaurant with about nine tables. A karaoke stage where anybody could try their talent is maned by an elderly person. He invited every one form each table to sing along. I was called as well, but I just whispered to the waitress: "Me not Muang Thai: I'm not a Thai. I can't sing Thai song". The message was relayed to the man. "OK. English song. OK", there you go, I'm in trouble. I need to think fast how to escape. "No English. Malay OK", I said aloud. "Sorry sir, no Malay. Next time". I was relief, I then just enjoy my dish, slowly, tongue burning.

(18) A man next to my table stood up. He walked half asleep, seem to be. Sleep walking-style. He is half drunk. The MC gave him the microphone. Everybody gave him a good applaud. He seem popular among the guests. I presumed he must be a regular. He began to sing. I almost laugh aloud. He swayed his body,left, right, in circle, just as I used to warm up at the Reservoir Park in Kuching during my weekend walk. I just smile all the way. He seem to notice me and waved his hand to me. Well, I waved back, as if, sort of appreciating John Denver on stage with his Take Me Home Country Road. He sang the Karabau song, the Thai country.

(19) Later I crossed the street to get some foods for my sahur at the 7-eleven, I saw some sandwiches. I feel glade, but as I checked on the label, it is pork shredded sandwiches. There you go, in Thailand, the Mosolim need to be extra careful, if we order for food. Pork is their favorite dish and repetitious, sound and clear instruction must be made. My usual order would be: "No chicken, No beef, No pork, Only seafood!" I then have to be happy with fresh milk and potatoes chip. Well, with these, then my schedule tomorrow would be very light and I though of having good rest while probably just taking a boat ride along Menam Chao Phraya to see the 1,000 temples.

Day 4: 27 August 2011

It is not a pleasant start. The hot burning chillies had the effect on me. Have been frequencing the loo for the past three hours. My body felt weak. I felt dehydrated. But, let me just decide to stay fasting. Let give another test. I try to fall back to sleep.

(2) I woke up a bit late. The sun is already high. I go down stair to talk to the Tour Agent to enquire on the best logistic at Vientien and Luang Prabang. The hotel standby rental car driver took me to a good Tour Agent at Sukumvit Street. After some satisfying arrangement, he then took me to the Bangkok Gems Gallery. This is claimed to be largest store in the world. I spent a fair bit of time there watching and talking to those craftmen working on all sort of gems from all over the world. There are about 30 of them in the frontline, while another 50 indoor. Real great place offering really authentic gems and stone with the fine craftmanship. This is a place where women and men could go crazy: woman crazy to buy and man crazy paying!. Apart from the gems and stones, what really amaze me was the deco of the place. Instead of all those probably exclusive in nature, the whole area seem to be deco with lots of sea water fish. It is to create the much unique ambient or part of the business Fend Shui? The girls lure me to buy some, but I asked for the fish:"Solly na, pis not for sale. Gem yes! You funny man"

(3) Later at about 1400 hours, I went over to the Rose Garden. I'm always being facinating about roses. I remember in 1992, going into the mountain in Chiang Rai, I took so much photoes on roses using those slides and real film. It was really a costly hobby taking photoes in those days.

(4) Nonetheless to my surprise, there were hardly any beautiful roses: ""Solly, nowaday, weather no good. B(V)elly difficult to grow roses. Many died. We have little only. You see along the road and some over the l(r)estoran over there" pointed a lady when I started my search for the plants. Well, again as I have said yesterday, Thailand is about flexibility. Anything, everything is flexible. Rose Garden is not really about rose, it is just a name of a place. It is a botanical garden by the river bank. I landed at the restaurant to accompany the driver to have his drink. The onward looking into the river and all those a distance away, made my mind to travel back to the Darul Hana Project that just being agreed by the Chief Minister on last Tuesday. Now I have a better idea on how those waterfront restaurant and water taxi terminal should be planned and done.

(5) The very fascinating about this Rose Garden is the Tropical Green Setting of the whole system. A concrete canal was developed in such that it is big and long enough to enable for the creation of an inland waterfront development environment. The Thai carps are raised in the cannal with some semblance of floating market was created. Along the path, all sort of fragrant plants were planted. Shades were nicely provided by lots of trees and numerous stalls and outlets being established to cater for all sort of sale and the in-situ making of gift items. I spent a fair bit of time exploring the whole setup.

(6) On the way back, there was Bangkok famous for. Jam along the way, and I have good nap after nap. I reached the hotel at about 1700 hours local time, and took a short rest before going out exploring the Pradipat Rd. This is quiet a nice place. Lot of restaurants and hotels. All are of middle level. An Arabic restaurant name Abu Ibrahim is just two block away from the Condotel. We can have good varieties of fruits sold at the five foor way along both sides of the road.

(7) I have my breakfasting through the guide of a friend in Kuala Lumpur. I assumed the timing between Bangkok and KL should be the same. Since my tummy doesn't feel good, this time I took lots of coconut drink and flesh. I had always a belief that coconut water and flesh are great internal injuries healing product.

(8) The hotel rental car driver request me to meet a lady whom he said is good in massaging and cooking Thai food in the later night. I have talked to him about my interest to look for someone with that skill as we move around in town today. I met the lady at the down stair restaurant. She looked nice. Came from Korat, a bit north of Thailand. Was married. With one kid. Quiet matured. The parent is in the Village and doing some small business. She is willing to have a try to come over to Malaysia. The only problem, she is trapped in an under world business. She works with a Tourist Guide Company. If she want to leave, she need to clear her protection money which is about RM10,000.00. I have not decided, and would run some acid test on her probably upon my return from Phnom Phen. I think to meet her boss and her parent as well to uncover the truth. The only thing, I hope I won't run into the same Pink Panther Bar as I experienced in 1992 at Pat Pong Street. Well if this is my this year Ramadhan giving a hand contribution, so just let it be.

(9) I then took a walk down the Street and have my Thai durian. A very fleshy Thai durian with less tasty. Our Sarawak's durian, though skinny, feel much better. I settled a bit early tonight to catch up with my lost good sleep last night and even tomorrow night. I just standy a bottle of fresh milk, some fruits and a bit of biscuits for my tomorrow sahur. With all these, I hope to restablise my collestrol and fat content of my tummy especially by end of the month. I hope this Ramadhan will give me real good health and strenght for me to move faster hereon.

(10) Upon returing to the hotel, the Hotel Car Driver came rushing to me: "Sir, I talked to the girl, she is good. She can go with you to Laos and Cambodia. She can speak Laos and Cambodia. Good for you. Just pay the Agent B3,500.00 a day. You help her", he seem begging for her to be taken as my tour guide. My sympathy to the hard life of the lady made me not thinking twice. I just said "OK" and made all the necessary arrangement for her to show up early tomorrow. I paid for her full seven days Tour Guide Service.

Day 5: 28 August, 2011

For today sahur I just took the two bottles of drinking water, with a bowl of pomelo and papaya. I skipped the fresh milk worrying it might gave me a kick back effect. As promised, the lady did turned up at about 0900 hours. Since the trip would only start at 1500 hours, I have sometimes to walk around. I purposely run some testing on her. I took her to some walks and Tuk-Tuk drive around the city. I just want to observe some outliers characters that might got me into trouble. I let her to decide the stopovers. In many places, I saw her running free with many personalities. My military sense, gave me a suspicious signal. My heart becaming doubtful of her sincerity.

(2) Going on Tuk-Tuk in Bangkok is quite facinating. One can really appreciate the whole of Bangkok, be it the front and back lanes. Bangkok is an aging city. Historically, this is a settlement being built over 500 years ago when Ayuthia was ramed by yhe Burmese Elephant-Armies. The multi-level Higways really had made the town look ugly. Dark dirty wall. Network of cables. Long stream of hawkers along the streets. Tuk-Tuk, bikes and taxies parking haphazardly. The citizen walking criss-crossing the busy street. All seem like a city in a chaotic manner feared to run by an invading army.

(3) Great for our city planners to come down to Bangkok and really study their city plnning and development failure. I could see, one day, Bangkok would just be a real slum city, probably the Wildest and Hottest Cit on Earth.

(4) Later I returned to the hotel and work on some articles. I left her to sit at the Hotel Lobby with the Driver. I ordered foods for both of them. Once a while, I just poped out to see if she was still around. Everytimes I came down, though from a distance I could see both of them seem to enjoy themselves, everytimes when they saw me, they seem to act uneasily. My suspicion mount greater. My gut began to very doubtful.

(5) At 1445 hours I set shalat sunnah. I just pray that my journey would be safe and sound. From the hotel manager, I gathered there are lots of uncertainties going into Laos especially alone. Logistic would be very bad. Communication the worst. Food, I need to work hard to get what I need. But I'm determined to give a try. After paying all the bills, and the pickup van had arrived, I approached both the Rental Car Driver and the Lady: "I decided to go alone. You don't have to follow me". I then quickly move into the van and waved them goodbye. From a distance I saw them laughing. My sense seem working.

(6) The pickup van dropped me off to a common meeting place. Some angmo and Japanese were there. There I was recieved by another person. I told him that, I'm coming alone instead of two, thus shown him my payment voucher. He gave me only one bus ticket while I have paid for two:"Solly, I don't know your problem. You come one, I give you one ticket. You not happy, you call the Agent", that the replied I got, when I asked for the second ticket. Today is Sunday. The Tour Agent Office is closed. I now can figured out the con that I'm facing. I just don't want to argue especially in this one of the Hottest City of the world.

(7) The place I figured out is somewhere around the China Town. The backlane seem busy. Narrow. Lively. Possibly scary at night. I kept my luggage at the counter, and took a walk to explore what there along those back lanes. In some stops:"Sir, where you going. Want have fun. Come in, look-look", the normal greet of this Hot City. I just walked on till I saw a crowd of angmo gathering and taking photoes. There, there is that popular Siam Tomoi Gym. It is a Tomoi Gym catering for those wanting to learn the Thai Martial Art. I spent bit of time here appreciating one of the big angmo being bullied by a small Siam Trainer. Cautiously I took some photoes and then continue with my walk.

(8) Fortunately the Waiting Place is equiped with a small restaurant and internet facilities. I spent my time at the internet kios to update on this articles.

(9) The journey started at 1845. About 13 of us in a double decker bus. Myself, one British, four Australian, five American ladies and a Japanese couple. The drive was smooth on the superb Highway. Immediately leaving the City, on the mltilevel Highway, looking down the streets, Bangkok is really a City of Stalls and Hawkers. Almost every streets are lined with stalls and hawkers selling all sort of things especially foods. At day time they may look ugly and messy, nonetheless, the ligh up at night turn everything interesting.

(10) We stopped at one place around 2200 hours. I rushed to get myself something to drink and eat. Again a real though breakfasting; fresh milk and potatoes chip. At one of the stalls, I bought a kilo of rambutan and mata kucing. I ate almost all of them. Really thirsty and hungry.

(11) From the glittering light, I could figure out, along the way must be vast paddy land. At few places, rows and rows of fruit stalls were lining up both sides of the Higway. The bus didn't make any stop. I just swallow my sliver. Those fruits really look inviting: mellon, durian, ciku, longan, laychee, all sorts.

(12) Later the bus made a pullover at a small market place. It is already 0400 hours. I tried to look for something heavy. Instant noodles were all with pork content. At last I resort to rice egg porrige with fresh milk. Really my diet this couple of days was off balance. I hope I won't caught flu or coughing. My weight is loosing fast. My trouser is loosing badly. But, I have to thank god, all those fat on my waist and tummy had drastically gone. I really felt very light.

Day 6: 29 August, 2011

We arrived at Nakon Khoi, the Thai bordering town with Laos at about 0530 hours. We need to wait until 0730 to go to the check point. The process at both Thai and Laos check point were pretty fast except we were delayed by the five American ladies. We then taken with abus to town which is about 70 kilos away.

(2) I check into the Avalon Hotel next to the China Town. A nice small clean hotel. Seem more popular with the Japanese. The rate is reasonable. U$30.00/night. The room is clean. The bed is nice. The toilet is clean and tidy. Everything are there, with free WiFi, except no writng table. I'm updating this entries by lying on my tummy just as I used to do during my childhood days when doing my homework. A real olden day rememberence.

(3) Despite feeling very sleepy, I can't close my eyes. I took a long hot shower. Said my Sunat Pray and rushed down stair. I asked for the Mosque. The conter person doesn't seem to know. His English is really belly lingtel. I the asked him to get me a taxi to go raound the city. He work on it and get me a cab man with pretty good English, helpfull and really honest. The fare is only U$50.00 a day, which is the cheapest I have ever come accross.

(4) He firstly took me to an art gallery. I bought few painting, and there is one painting that I really love, but not for sale. Even some nice photoes were also not for sale. The paintings here are much cheaper than those in Kuala Lumpur or Jakarta.

(5) Then we toured the City of this 700,000 population. I made some stopped over to take some shots on the various roofing architecture which seem very interesting. Now I began to figure out, the Limas or Bangsal form, which are common in Kelantan and Sarawak in the 1980s,are there really Malays or it is in fact common among the tropical nad subtropical home architectural. There also hybrid between Bali, Javanese and Palembang roofing architecture among the houses here.

(6) Vientien is not a high rise city. It is a sprawlling city. Not much tall buildings are available. The biggest probably the Century Hotel. The rest are merely 3-6 storeys building with mostly pitch roof. They seem to adopt the local architecture well into the design of the commercial building. No shopping complex seem available. But, some nice France-style Boutiques selling quite nice modern design lining up mostly along the China Street and the Mekong Waterfront.

(7) I also dropped by to a nice book store. Bought few books especially on Laos and Cambodia. Later at around 1500 hours, I went over to the Al Azhar Mosque. This mosque is mained by the Champa Community. The mosque is located about three kilos away from town. A group of about 60 Champa Muslim Families are maining the mosque.It is a small mosque which was assisted mostly by Malaysian Embassy to maintain. I was told Sultan Mirzan did put some hands in the development of the mosque. I promised the Imam to retun to the mosque again tomorrow for the Aidil Fitri pray and to get some details of their problems. The other Mosque which is Indan-Pakistan based is in town.

Day 7: 30 August, 2011

Rosane pick me up at 0800 hours. I went over to the Al Azhar. The Mosque was almost packed when I reached there. Men, ladies and kids were presence. As predicted, the Mosque captured a good presentation of the profile of the Vientien Chmap Muslim. i met few Malaysia and Indonesian Embassy staff. I have posted special articles on the Al Azhar.

(2) What really captured me was the way the Cham ladies dressed. They exactly dressed like the Malays. Of course the young ladies captured my attention more. They dressed in nice stylist kebaya with loose tudung. They looked real soft and eligent. There are fair. They are nice built. I posted some of their photoes in my later articles. The men and kids, they seem want to be Arabic, long kurong dressed. You see this in Kedah, Kelantan, Trengganu, etc, the Nik Aziz dressing. The influnecd of pondok I believe.

(3) Rosane fetched me back at about 10.30 hours. I went over to the Post Office and
sent all those books and some hand made bed spread by post home. Well, this is a good experienced in dealing public run entities. The norm seem, slow and couln't bother. I have to under go four processes each by different person. First, the packaging and weghting. Second approval of postage weight and pricing. Next payment of the total cost, and last delivery to the stocking person. I remembered in Denver, a one man show can handle everything. I hope, in Malysia be should also be more efficient and friendly. These are very important if we want to gera up in the toursim industry.

(4) For the night, I took Rosane and the family to a dining out. This time, I requested the wife and the sons to choose.They choosed a Thai Seafod Restaurant close to the airport., called Kugh Phao. The wife want to have fresh Salmoon and the kids love rooasted prawn. Well as I saw them taking the prawn, that remind me of my long lost family life in the 1960s. Prawn was our normal dish: boil, soup, sweet and sour, roasted, you name it, all we have. Cheap, free in fact. I will post a special entries on this later.

Day 8: 31 August, 2011

With a tuk-tuk I went over to the City Bus Terminal. Board a bus to Luang Prabang. Started the journey by 0900 hours. I have posted a special entry on details of the bumpy winding journey.

(2) Let me then just give my piece on how I see the role, Malaysia could do firstly to expand our economic based and surely to provide good leadership within the ASEAN economies. In Malaysia, we are now fighting among ourselves, be it the Chinese, Indian, Malays and other natives. In fact, we are just stupid dumb that never want to see thing beyond our boundaries. Collectively, we have all the resources and experienced to manage all those thing which our neighbouring State are needing. Name it, FELDA, Sime Darby, Tabung Haji, Tradewind, IOI, United Plantation, and many others we have all. We can help. Probably the only problem with us Malaysian is that we are too chauvanistic political centric.

(3) As a botanist, I can see their natural flora are just like ours, at least for the region from Vientien to Luang Prabang. These signifies the soil, rainfall, sunlight intensity, and temperature are just similar if not the same. I can see the same coconut, areca nut, banana, pandan, lemon grass, citrus, rain trees, and so forth are all there. Thus, oil palm, rubber, cocoa, and definitely coffee could strive well here. This State is in deadly need of development. We can help, we can benefit great, except we never want to see 1Malaysia from a consolidated business approach. Najib, too much politic.

Day 9: 1 Sept., 2011

It was rainning in the early day. I spent most of my time to finish few articles. Later I strolled the Luang Prabang Water Front and some alleys. The local building architectures and restorataion program really amazed me.UNESCO had done real great job here. Tourism is the nerve of the economy. I was informed, we can come here cheap as long as we don't coincide with the cold winter in the north when the European and American will start to flock in, that is between Oct to March. But we must also avoid the rainny season, that is between July to Septembar, especially if we want to take the land.

(2) The lodging concept here is Gueathouse Style. Old buildings being turned into nice simple furnished rooms. There are comon areas espcially to sell all sort of western drinks and simple food. Some buildings are tuned into nice river looking restaurant and bars.

(3) Imediate to the river bank, there is rows of simple eateries outlets that goes into the late night. I presumed, this must be a very lively scene in the peak season.

(4) I have posted a special entries on the River Front Development, and I could see, now I have to quickly workout a nice Malays' Ambient for the Darul Hana Waterfront Redevlopment. The revival of the Malays' architecture and the buildings layout must be made in such that business will prosper and the Malays' lifestyle preserved to a much better quality. The revival of the Malays' business and enterprenising midset must be seriuosly pursued and nurtured. The Malays mindset have to be changed to take more challenging and risky enterprise rather looking toward public services and handout. The Sarawak Malays must be daring enough to move out of their complacent norms. I hope to contribute greatly on this.

Day 10: 2 Sept., 2011

I sat at a coridor outside my room. On the Water Front Walkway, I saw a pile of firewood. Later, a small lady came with a tangkun and loaded the firewood onto her shoulder. She delivered them to the nearby customers. Fire wood is the source of fuel over here. I don't see the busy bottled gas delivery since I was here the last two days. As she finished with her work, I waved to her. I passed her U$10.00 note. She seem indifferent. I was puzzled.

(2) Later, an old monk suddenly sat by the river bank wall. I thought he is offering a pray to the Mekong. He took out his pipe, and happily smoke it out. He kept his hand busy by picking all those dead leaves on the neraby tress and potted plants. No wonder I don't see much litter around. The monk did his social service.

(3) From the back, the firewood lady pat on me. Sebaidee she sort of bow her head and put the two palms together as if praying to me. I was a bit shocked. Later I realised, she just discovered the real value of that U$10.00 which is equivalent to K79,000.00 or B350.00. Here the business community and even the tuk-tuk, they love U$. They also take Thai Baht. One Baht is equal to K256.00 and a U$$r is about K7,900.00. At one of the Money Changer, RM equal to K1,700.00 meaning RM is stronger values as against Baht but lesser to U$.

(4) As promised, the hotel night care taker came over at 10.00 hours. I aksed him to follow me to the good waterfall area that he had told me last night. We took a tuk-tuk at a price of U$20.00. The awterfall is 25 KM away to the south of the City. Going through small, winding and bumpy road passing by many villages really excite me. The only problem was, when we met lorries or bigger vehicles, I have to hold my breath and closed my eyes. The road turned dusty and I can feel the dust hitting my face and settling on to my hair.

(5) About five kilometers from the City, we have to report ourselves to the Police Check Point. The Check Point is mained by two personnel, and they just record the plate nos of the tuk-tuk. Agai I wonder why and for what. Earlier the Hotel Caretaker had worn me that if the police enquire about him, he want me to tell the police that he is my friend. We had known each other about two years ago. I figured this is not correct, because if I have know him for about two years ago, then more question will be asked. Surely the truth will be unvailled. So I told him that he is my friend whom I met in the bus from Vientien to Luang Prabang. That will be just sufficient.

(6) In fact there are lots of funny thing that I hardly can understand here. The Care Taker person said that only Toursit Guide can take anybody to the tourist destination area. Other than that, if they are caught, the police will punch them hard. Yet, when I asked him about how much he was paid by the Hotel, to my shocking only U$80.00 a month, without food, lodging and transport allowance. He is also not eligible for leave except for the Saturday and Sunday.

(8) The journey was great. It gave me the chance to have a close look at the rural villages. The mountainous landscape always facinating me. The kids bare footed walking back after school really take me back to my kid days life.

(9)Upon reaching the waterfall area, I took both the tuk-tuk driver and the Hotel Caretaker for Som Tam and Smoke Fish. I also ordered three fresh coconut, but the juice taste dosn't seem nice. The Som Tam was deadly hot, and tears came out of my eyes. Luckily I have the young coconut juice and flesh. That help to kill the heat. As for the fish, I asked for shredded chillies with catchup. I really have to go to the kitchen to explain what I want. Well, this Laos, acquitance in English really not their concern.

(10) The waterfall is real nice. Unfortunately not many location where people can bath or swim. The water is rushing fast. I just enjoyed taking the photoes.

(11) Later we rushed to another waterfall area to the northern part of the City, It is 50 KM away from the first one. To reach they, upon reaching to a point, we need to take a boat down river for about 10 minutes. The river water is fast, muddy colored. The boat is powered by water pump engine and in fact is just a small bangkong.

(12) The waterfall is erally amazing. It really doesn't fall as the earlier one, but sprawlling in large area with many places for one to swim or bath. Naturally I believe this is the elephant bathing areas.

(13) Returning back to the hotel, I gave the Care Taker U$30.00 for his accompanying me. He was so happy and promised to make sure to see me before he left from work at 0630 hours tomorrow. I'll be heading for Siam Reap by 10.30 hours tomorrow. Before I settled down I rush by ther river front to take some photoes of the long boat flying the Mekong river. I met an old lady being attended by a mobile, what I called Lady Nail Doctor, which is a manicure or pedicure services, so I asked her to attent to my fast growing fingure nails. She did it expertly, which in fact the first time in my life. She really clean up all those dead skin or cuticle surrounding the edges of the nail. I paid her K50,000.00 instead of K10,000.00 as she asked. Surely she was so happy.

(14) I have short nap. Later I came out to the hotel lobby in Sarung, and that made everybody wondering. I just smile and said Sebaidee to all. I have nice VitaMilk drink appreciating the sunset over the muntains. Then I have fried mixed vege verci-noodle with Som Tam the Laos style as my dinner. I settled for the night a bit early.

Day 11: 3 Sept., 2011

I woke up, and found out Yang Lee had gone home. I have my breakfast at the corridor and again was entertained to the real images of Laos. I have placed a special entry on this as a small conclusion of my Laos experience.

(2) The flight to Siem Reap took about an hour and ten minutes. From the air, there is a real contrast between Laos and Chambodia. Infrastructure seem to be more. Land are much farmed. More settlements could be seen dispersing all through the country. More flate paddy lands are observed.

(3) Upon landing, took a cab to the Lin Ratanak hotel, about two kilometers off from down town. At the hotel, I made all the equiries for me to plan for the next couple of days trips. I love to spent time to see the revival of the old town into great tourist spot. Then would visit the Floating Village at the Tonse Sap. Hopefully I could also visit the small muslim village around the town. Arts, books, and craft would be on my normal agenda. I have my late lunch at the restaurant: Som Tam the Chambodia version, which taste better even from the Thai, curry fish and nice Chambodian rice.

(4) Later I took a nab and after Magrib, I took a tuk-tuk to the Old and Night Market. It cost me U$1.50. The Cambodian Tuk-tuk is much better from all those in Indonesia, Thailand, Laos and Vietnam. Their i more like a smaller version of the horse pull cart, with the motocycle acting as the horse. It really pleasant, and the most it carries four passengers.

(5) The Old and Nite Market is quite a busy place. Lots of painting and handycraft are sold here. Photocopied of famous books are also sold freely on the Street. I got some, which are mostly on Pol Pot and those real life novel written by either the victim themselves or the actors of the war, the cruel American and France whom now seem wanting to repent! Massage service is the norm: "Massage Sir. One dollar. If no good, no pay", lured the ladies and half-man personalities that tend to block my street walk. Almost every alternatively there is a massage facilities be it opened or aircon loom have sir. This is a real place to visit at night. Heaven for non-Muslim food lover.

(6) I was happy to note, the style of restaurant being organized here is almost similar to what I have been trying to do in Kuching. Apart from the nice ground floor being properly done, the over looking first floor is also being turned into nice lookout eating leasure place. Though colors are less applied, but they place more lighting color to attract the customers. Tonight I just make my survey, and sure would try one tomorrow.

(7) I returned back to the hotel early and start my reading on a novel called: The Girl in the Picture written by Denise Chong. It is about the discovery by Canadian journalist about a girl who ran naked during the ravage American bombing of the Indochinese War, and now she migrated and settled in Toronto, Canada. The price of war, the price of when the citizen of a State fought their freedom, a book Malaysian should read and appreciate.

Day 12: 4 Sept., 2011

Woke up early morning, and started my day by reading Brother Number One. A Political Biography of Pol Pot by Chandler, David P.. In this trip I managed to get good collection of books on the Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge, the regime judged by the West as the most brutal and cruel no equal to any evil on earth.

(2) By 10.00 I went see the Tonle Sap, the Freshawter Lake where the famous floating villages are. Going on a Tuk-Tuk through some probably back lane on the outskirt of Siem Reap, running through the suburb settlements, winding, potholes all over the places, the air smell fishy hanyir due to the wet environment of the villages. Sanitation are real absent. Well I just enjoy the air, though I need to hold my breath at many times.

(3) Paid for U$30.00 for an hour boat ride through the lake. Really different and mind bogging. The houses either built on boat or on mate of bammboo. The house seem eracted on stilt, but they are not. This time of the year, is the moonsoon period till probably Novembar when the dry period will begin till March next year. At this moment the Lake is filled up. These are special people. They just love water and they stay above water, probably the love rocking life.

(4) During the dry period, they move to the center of the Tonle Sap about 3-4 kilometers away. They only return to the same spot once the water level of the lake raise again. Their lives are just nomadic, not in desert but above water. Interesting indeed.

(5) Flocks of tourists coming over. Bicycle after bicycle, motorcycle after motorcycle, tuk-tuk after tuk-tuk, car after car, van after van nad bus after bus, the tourist just come. Everybody pay U$30.00 to see the Water Gypsy, I would call. Yet, I observed they get nothing. Sustaining them in poverty and miseries is an asset seem to be. Gotch!

(6) I then went back to the Old Market to pichup those painting that I ordered. Later I have my Fish and Chips Lunch at one of the neraby restaurant and encounter nice experienced over the Ice Tea. Read my entry on this separately.

(7) At about 1700 hours I took a tuk-tuk to the Angkor Wat. At the airport, one would clearly notice Gold riched advertisement Angkor Beer our Pride equivalent to Anchor Beer banck home. That how toursist being lured to visit Angkor Wat and later probably having Angkor Beer.

(8) Prior to that I enquired from the Hotel Counter Service on the possible charges: You go now, you buy ticket. You can buy ticket now and see sun set tomorrow. I said I don't understand. You now go, you buy ticket. You can see sun set tomorrow. I was even puzzle. I go now. I buy ticket now. I see sunset now. Can I? I tried to make myself clear. yes, yes. You can buy ticket now and you can see sunset now. Tomorrow you buy ticket and can see sunset.

(9) I decided just to proceed without try to understand. Probably self experenced is much better. Well, there is a long que of tourists on a day visit, mostly Japanese and Korean. The Buddhists mostly. I don't bother to wait for A Day Visit Que which is U$20.00 so I went over to a counter saying U$40.00 for Four Days Visit. ta the Que than only I understand: A day ticket can last for 24 hours, meaning if we buy today, we can still used the same ticket for the next 24 hours. That is what: Buy Today See Tomorrow means. See how communication can make thing worst.

(10) In fact nothing much there. Sunset in this rainy season is not really great. You don't get the reddish color of the sleeping sun. The only excite people seem to be to see the light reflection onto the overlooking Tonle Sap. That is what they called: Sunset over Angkor Wat ie we stand on the Wat to see sun set onto the Tonle Sap.

(11) Returning back to the hotel, then I realised I have made a great mistake by buying lots of painting at the Old Market and Floating Village. On my way back, I saw lots of painting stalls being eracted along the way out of the Wat. I planned to spend most of my time next day here to appreciate all these painting.

Day 13: 5 Sept., 2011

I started the day by reading the book titled: The Cham Rebellion. Survivors' Stories from the Villages by Ysa Osman. This is a book about how the Pol Pot had work on the cleansing of the Cham, whome once was a great Kingdom but later I would believe as they became strong they just behave like those the Cordova of Spain. In the era of chaotic in Indochinese, the Cham alienated themselve strongly with the Norodom Sihanouk regime, which when he was toppled by the Pol Pot, surely whoever were associated with the previous regime whom are too lineinet to the France becam the first target of elimination. The book is a colection of tragic stories by individual Cham, the left over minor Muslim within the Communist-Buddhist.

(2) Later I went back to the Angkor Wat area to really go through all those Art Galleries along the road. I continued to add on to my collection especially those that bring one memories to the past which soon will be forgotten.

(3) Then I just settled to the hotel, and later at about 1700 hours I went over to have my late lunch early dinner at a nice Franco-Italiano Restaurant which serve Khmer foods. Then I met three sisters, Samarth, and I bought some more painting to my collection.

(4) I need to come back to the hotel abit early to pack and get ready to move down to Phnom Phen early tomorrow morning.

Day 14: 6 Sept., 2011

I left the hotel for the bus terminal at about 0800 hours local time on a pickup van. The bus later left for Phnom Penh by 0930. The journey to Phnom Penh was smooth, on a high deck single level aircon bus. Luckily the bus was not full, or else I might be having problem to get the best window view since my ticket was not numbered.

(2) I read in a book, about 5,000 years ago, probably when Nile, Babylon, Ganges and Yang Tze were at the peak of their civilization, geologically Khmer, then Kampuchea and now Cambodia had not exist. The geological theory stated that, this region, the Vietnam Bay was sea of water by then. The siltation of the Mekong river then slowly taking place, and thus the land mass began to build up. That was how geologically Cambodia was created.

(3) Since Siem Reap until Phnom Penh, at this time of the year, as far as one could see, on both side of the Highway, Cambodia seem made of mass of water bodies. If all the paddy fields are cleaned up, definitely the feeling and scenery is just like one travelling on the Highway I25 or taking the train ride across the Salt Lake City, Utah, in Summer. The Highway in fact is a built-up long land masses. As I flew down from Luang Prabang to Siem Reap the other day, I could see the only high grounds across the vast paddy fields are the Highway and earth road to the villages.

(4) Houses on stilt are built along the Highway or road side. There are patches of houses in clusters distance away in the paddy fields. These are just like my memories in Melor, Kelantan in the 1970s. The far reaching green sceneries of the semi-submerged paddy fields intercepted by clusters or lining of Sugar Palms and planted trees is really a superb and tranquil photographic item be it in the early morning or late dust. The thick white or dark cloud would add great light reflection on the surface of the paddy fields.

(5) The houses are of simple structures. Architecturally, the roofing are either Limas Perak or blended Bali-Javanese Pitch. But most are of Limas Perak style. As compared to the Malaysian layout, the Cambodian seem to assimilate the Chinese Shophouse Style of home configuration. The roofing is wavy in structure running parallel to the road as against mostly the perpendicular arrangement as found in Malaysia. The center hall have a higher pitch while the frontage corridor and the kitchen having lesser height. What really interesting about the home setting is that, the stair case, is placed to the side, not as mostly to the right at the front center as in Malaysia. The stair case normally is not roofed.

(6) High incidence of poverty is glaring. Most of the rural homes are made of timber or palm leaves be it the roofing or the wall. Some are zinc roof but still with palm leave wall. Some surely are on brick . In Malaysia, almost every home having kancil or the worst one or two motorbikes parked either in front or under their home. Here in Cambodia, they parked two to four bull and cattle in the compound. This is a country of cattle and buffaloes. These animal are their true assets as well as their traditional machineries that help them with their living.

(7) All along the way, I could see cutting and gathering of firewood as the core of the young and women. I could feel, probably, their women not only worried of what to cook, but can they cook especially when the firewood are diminishing. I could feel, fighting for firewood would be a big social issues here in Cambodia as land are to make way for paddy and many others. I don’t see any lorry delivering LPG on this six hours journey from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh.

(8) I believe, sustaining paddy farming the way the Cambodian are doing it, would forever making this country poor. The mother nature of the Mekong River which swell for about six months every years couldn’t just be taken as a great hinderance to a much diverse and modern faming system. The Dutch for instance is also underwater, thus being called Holland (may come from the word Hole Land), yet they are te biggest dairy producer. I could see cattle industry has big prospect here since they seem to have lots of those Brahmin breed. Fisheries and duck rearing would also having great potential.

(9) I do believe, proper realignment of the channel, drainage and river system would help Cambodia to go beyond rice-based economy. I believe, our Malaysian officials who are serving here, they are not developmental thinker thus, they can’t feed Malaysia government, with the best friendship policies especially to help the poor countries such as Indonesia, Phillipines, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia and Mynmar. Expanding Malaysian economy beyond our national boundaries should be given high thought especially now we are having high percentage of literate and educated population yet our economy is not able to absorb all. Being a well know expert in Islamic Financial Management, Malaysian should have all the ability to assist even the management of the Petro-dollar from the Arab nations. Malaysia, we are good in agriculture and business management, yet we are shallow in our international economic foresight.

(10) Najib, it is time for Malaysian to be more serious on the Global stage. Solve our home political and social problems by going global such as what the Japanese, Korean, Taiwanese, and now Singapore are doing. Our home issue is about fighting on a small cake. Thus let focus on expanding the cake. The Malaysian civil servant posted oversea, especially those Malay PTD officer, time to change their attitude into being economically and business-minded nationalistic rather that unproductive racial and chauvinist nationalistic.

(11) Their women are skinny. Pale. Small built. Short. Malnutrition seem the main cause. Surely their kids are painful to see. Their men, their physic doesn’t at all match their age. Sited next to me a lady whom have been to Malaysia and worked with a China Firm in Penang for about three years and she now studying to be a teacher, though the salary may just be U$150.00/month, but she preferred to be home instead of the better salary but with long killing hours in the Malaysian factories. Interesting for Malaysian authorities to note, especially in our urge to encourage FDI, which not only doesn’t hire our local much, but giving a very bad image of the country as well. FDI in fact suck up our State through all sorts of levies and allowances given.

(12) I was delighted as we turn into the Friendship Japan-Cambodia Bridge crossing the Mekong river to enter into Phnom Penh, I saw a small mosque. I presumed the surrounding villages must be the Cham. Later, probably about 10-15 KM away, again I saw a larger mosque. I hope to find my way to these villages soon. After checking-in at a hotel at the Monivong Blvd, quickly settled myself, then I went for the KFC next door. The waitress who was serving me named Yeb Hasinas. I asked whether she is a Muslim, and the answer was yes. I further enquired if their KFC is halal. Again she convincingly gave a positive replied. But still I have some doubt, thus just ordered Fish Burger for my late lunch and again early dinner. As I poured the Chilly sauce onto my burger, I saw Malaysia JAKIM’s Halal Logo on the sauce and thus I ordered two drum stick as an additional. I felt real hungry.

(13) It was raining. I just went over to the so called Book Store but found out it was just a large stationaries about 300 meters away from the hotel. It seem either in Thailand, Laos and Cambodia, to them a stationaries is a book store. I have many times being misled on this. This indicates the people likelihood over the reading habit. The presence of real good bookstore(s) symbolises the citizen affinity to the reading culture. Siem Reap seem to have better bookstores, because of the presence of seasonal readers.

(14) Walking in the rain here in Phnom Penh is really bad. There seem no such provision of the Kaki Lima: Five Feet Way, what provided is just an about three feet walkway and yet the motorbikes, cars and tuk-tuk are parked right to the edge of the wall. Pedestrian are denied of their comfort. I later retreat to the hotel and ended reading Paradise Lost. Smyrna 1922 The Destruction of Islam’s City of Tolerance by Milton, Giles. This book is about Turk conquest of Greece Island prior to the WWII. The Othoman empire then I believe, just as the Cordova in Spain, due to their arrogance and most likely never heeded to what Sayyidina Omar Al Khatabb had warned much earlier that the Muslim must never leave business to be run by the slaves and POW worst to the Jews, in their after victory administration, thus the Greece to this day, despite they are minority and the subject of Turkey yet they controlled them. I strongly suggest all Muslim must study and really discuss what Umar Al Khatab had done and forewarn us 1,400 years ago, if we the Muslim want a much better living for our future.

(15) Going out in Phnom Penh in the night especially after 2100 hours is not advisable, which is totally different than in Siem Reap, Vientien and Luang Prabang. Begging began to start here though mostly among the victims of the American greed.

Day 15: 7 Sept., 2011

I have posted a special entry on this. This is the day I sort of discovering the true image of Phnom Penh. No doubt, massive properties development is up coming in Phnom Penh. Probably within the next 2-3 years, Phnom Penh tourism industry will boom, probably a head of Bangkok or even Hanoi and Ho Chii Minh city. Vietien will at no match.

Day 16: 8 Sept., 2011

It was in deed a another interesting day today. Firstly, as promised Naim, came to the hotel as agreed by 0700 hours. When I saw him waiting outside the lobby, I called him to have breakfast together with me. He was very reluctant, but I made him come and I served him drinks and bread. We then went over to a Muslim Village at Mile 7th. There is a mosque called Darul Ehsan there. It caters for about 800 muslim families. After my Sunatul Masjid, which I have to do it at the corridor, since the Mosque was locked, then came the in charge person by the name of Rozali. He can speak good English. He is a teacher at an orphan school financed by the Kuwait government.

(2) Rozali Salleh in fact revealed quiet a nice exposure whereby Malaysian used to donate money for Qurban during the Aidil Adha. Nonetheless since the Kurban usually never being withness by the donors, most of the time the cattle chosen to be slaughtered were not in accordance with the requirement of the syariah. Subsequently, the distribution of the meat were not organised along the requirement of the Kurban. What he tried to say was Malaysian who sent their money for the korban normally never knew that they are being cheated. He is suggesting the Kurban should be channel and organised through the Masjid. He can be contacted through hp +855 972114100 or e-mail muslimnew@yahoo.com.

(3) Secondly, he regretted that the Darul Ehsan Masjid was built partially on the old graveyard. Their mufti had come out with the fatwa saying that is not allowed. I’m not really sure about this, and would love to check later and accordingly will e-mail him on Malaysian stance on the matter. The Mosque can’t anymore accommodate the requirement of the Jamaah especially for the Jumaat and Aidil Fitri or Adha pray. A larger Mosque at the size of 24 meters by 34 meters is planned to be done subject to the inflow of donation from the International Muslim communities. U$240,000.00 is needed for the purpose. Interestingly, the Mosque in fact is surrounded by the non-Muslim, and the qariah come from a distance away.

(4) Later I went over to 8th KM Chriang Chamres, Muslim area. A Mosque identified as Darul Naim, the biggest Phnom Penh is located here. There are about 1,500 Muslim families living surrounding the Mosque. After the Sunnatul Masjid, then I strolled within the Village area. I met a teacher by the name ofFadil Osman and later he accompanied me through some of the lanes within the Villages. He introduced most of his relatives to me. He could be contacted through +855 976528852 or if nay would like to visit Cambodia and need a good guide, just contact his brother Zuhdy Osman at +855 85768998 0r +855 978401843.

(5) The layout of the houses is very haphazard. The alley connecting from one home to another is very narrow about five feet wide, winding and not even. The local seem to build their homes based on the natural contours. Worst, since the Mekong River used to swell during the monsson season, the water may raise 3-5 feet high. Fire surely is their worst enemy and such incidence had occurred that destroyed almost the whole village. There is sign of land availability issue, since more houses are now being built into the river. The present scene in Kampung Datu, Sibu is emerging here.

(6) Fishing is very much associated with the Cham. Fadil aslo informed me that, the Vietnamese Cham are much aggressive in doing the fishing, thus the Cambodian Cham are loosing.

(7) He also informed me that most of the Muslim people here are doing some retailing especially at the Market and as stalls operator all over the place. Doing business within their own Village seem not feasible and they really can’t compete with the Chinese whom controlled all the Wholesale outlets. The profit margin given is very small and price of good fluctuate on daily basis since there is no pricing controlling mechanism. It seem the price of goods in Kambodia move along with the daily exchange rate. Price of food items are really scary vis for one kg of sugar cost about RM4.00, wheat flour at RM4.50/kg, eggs at about RM0.70/each, chicken at U$5.00/Kg and so forth. Basically cost of living here is very expensive and beyond the poor affordability.

(8) How to solve these problems? I will post a special entry for this. Later I went over to KM 9th to the farthest, and the same settlement structure is observed. The bigger Cham population is about 120 KM away at Kampong Cham and Kampong Thom by the Tonle Sap, up river. I hope to have my feet on these settlements in the future.

(9) Naim took me to his house to meet his family. His mother Zaharah is 46 years old, while his father is just a 40 years person. He got a sister named Salimah whom just left High School but not interested to continue her study. Naim himself is 23 years old and just recently married to a part time Mak Andam, Noraini, aged 17 years old. They have a small two storey home, I figured about 20 feet by 20 feet, with a room down stair and another one up stair.

(10) Their livelihood really depending on both Naim and the father, Razali earning from the tuk-tuk or car rental business that they operate. The mother gives a hand by selling rice on credit term basis. There are times, they really have to suffer especially when the economy is not doing good.

(11) Zaharah had a very sad confirmation on the book that I read about how bad was the Pol Pot to the Cham, where their original population almost cut into half after his regime. Those were in the period 1972-79. That is in fact the time, when I started my hijrah and the Sarawak State is facing real bad communist insurgency, lead by Bong Kee Chok. Here, in Cambodia, Pol Pot regime toppled the much liberal government and forced especially the city people to work in the paddy field. Zaharah was aged five years old at that time. No mercy, Pol Pot made every body to walked and forced them to do real hard work for long hours in the paddy field. As a returned, they don't even have chance to have enough rice to eat, just sufficient to make porridge for everybody. The family have five kids. Zaharah is numbered three. Her mother really suffered badly. His father died because of long hunger and hard work.

(12) After the regime colapsed, the city was still in chaotic. The mother had to feed the kids with all sort of leaves that could be taken, and collect some to trade with rice. There are days, she just able to make a cup or two of rice to feed her five kids with no others to turn to.

(13) Zaharah in fact made an attempt to escape, and she joined a group of people toward the Thai border. There are Arab countries at that time which were willing to take these Muslim Cham into their countries. Alot made it, but Zaharah and many others were cheated by the Thai. Luckily she was able to make it back to Cambodia, or she will be one that to this day may have landed in the Patpong notorious are in Bangkok. Though her Malay is very limited which she learned from the Indonesian boats that used to trade in the 1980s, her body language gave me the inner deep hurts that she had experience.

(15) I asked whether she revealed those to her kids: "Ya saya selalu cerita sama dia orang, bang. Saya dulu susoh. Tak cukop nak makan. Sekarang kamipun susoh, tapi dulu lagi susoh". My observation, she had built a nice humble family. The kids are nice and very polite.

(16) Since it was late noon, they invited me for a lunch. Probably it was lucky that I dressed very simple and looks simple, they are at ease to have me for the lunch. The lunch is really very basic: fried salted fish, fried fresh cockles, fried eggs, rice and plain water. Vegetable seem lacking. We sited on the floor. It was lucky in fact I have not regained back my excess weight, or I may having problem to sit.

(17) I then returned and rest at the hotel. Last night I took the whole family to Bhopa Restaurant by the Water Front. By coincident, the Restaurant is just to the opposite of their Village and the placed where the Vietnamese Cham parked their boats. It is a very nice and big Restaurant owned by a Muslim. Well, this is their very first ever dinning out, thus I have to treat them well especially in dealing with all those food seem alient to them. As for the desert, I asked for everyone to be served with ice-cream. As one could imagine, you can see their face flared delightfuly. I was happy indeed to be able to treat this poor family to a nice dinner.

Day 17&18: 9-10 Sept., 2011

I didn't get out of the hotel till 12.30 hours, to Masjid Doerul Salam for the Jumaat pray. This is a masjid next to Zaharah home. Size 10 m by 15 m. At the pray, the Masjid is packed. I'm very happy to see almost a equal ratio between the elder and young.

(2) After the pray, since the weather start to couldy, I invite Zaharah and her family to a shopping treat. We went over to Shorea Shopping Complex, which is four storey place, the only big shopping complex around. The nature of this Complex is much crowded than our Wisma Hopoh.

(3) In general, clothing in Cambodia is cheap. Real cheap. I would say they are just 20-30 percent of the Malaysian pricing. Jeweleries probably is the specialty for Cambodia especially at this Complex. Naim, whom was just married a couple of months ago, to a very poor family daughter, an orphan in fact, as I saw the wife have no ring on her fingure, and she seem keep focusing her eyes onto those jeweleries, thus I suggest Naim to pick what ever he feel good for the wife. I bought her a ring as agift for Naim hard work and honesty being my tuk-tuk man for the week. She was very happy and refused to pick any clothing that I offered her to choose as well. To me, these are real humble and down to earth family.

(4) Later in the late noon, since it was raining heavily, I took them to a France operated Roof Top Restaurant for Pizza. Well, since they have never been to such a place, I have to couch them on how to slice the Pizza and hold the fork and knife properly. A real pitty scene.

(5) I don't really know why despite many times I look at my fligh home schedule to be on the 11 Sept., 2011, I keep telling them that I would be leaving on Saturday which is on 10 Sept., 2011. Probably, I have missed the office for too long and woorying about all those urgent works that I have to handle.

(6) This morning, by 0830 hours, Zaharah and her kids came over to the hotel wanting to join me to the airport. They intend to bit a farewell. Luckily I crossed check with my PA, and I was reminded that my flight home is not today, but tommorow. I really have to apology to them.

(7) Since there is a weeding ceremony at Zaharah sister place, the whole of them then rushed home. Naim then just took me to the National Museum. As usual books and arts would be my first target. In Phnom Penh, this is the place where one could get all those nice painting. At the museum, I tried to get books on the Cham, but can get none.

(8)Later I spent my noon time at the Bhopa Muslim Rastaurant to have Buffalo Steak. It taste nice and different. There I start reading a novel titled: The Search by Maureen Myant, then just have nice rest at the hotel.

(9) By 1730 hours, Naim fetched me to have dinner at her mother place. There I met his grand mother who is now 80++, she look patience, quiet, and really small. Pol Pot almost took her lives, and at the age of 30++, she had to work to death to make sure her five kids to survive. Her husband couldn't make it, and she had to struggle alone. The dinner was joined by some of Zaharah nices, nephews and the youngest brother with the wife.

(10) Before that, I went over to a Pharmacy to get Zaharah grandchild, Jasmin, who is 2++ years old, some multi-vitamin because she is suffering from a bad nutrient defficiency. Interestingly, since the nearest pharmacy store is government operated, thus I have no choice by to get the multi-vitamin from them, but when I consulted a Doctor there, he seem not knowing anything about the multi-vitamin suitable for the kids. He even suggested to me, those Vitamins that are main for the adult. I'm quiet familiar about all these, because since my kids were concieved, I have been practicing multi-vitamin supplementary for the mother and myself as well now never missed my multi-vitamin supplement to stay fit nad healthy.

(11) After having coffee, Naim sent me back to the hotel. I settled and rest for the day, except to continue reading The Search. This my last entry for the trips, and I hope to have chance to work on the Cham probably by emnd of the year.

(12) My gratitude to Maimunah Morshidi and my PA, Siti Nuraishah whom had assisted me in some of the logistic matters prior my trips. To all well wisher, my many thanks to all of you, and may some of my experiences as I have wriiten above would give you some new knowledge if not inspiration.

(13) Laos and Cambodia are cool and safe countries as compared to Thailand. Honesty is much better in Laos, and surely worst in Bangkok. I love to come back and be much more crazzy to explore the much rural areas.

Somewhere on Earth
24 August-11 Sept., 2011

#Abdullah Chek Sahamat

Writing that complies Bizarre, Odd, Strange, Out of box facts about the stuff going around my world which you may find hard to believe and understand

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